Small Garden Ideas: How to Get Started

[ad_left]
When looking for small garden ideas, many people jump online or browse magazines to get inspiration. Then armed with an exciting array of new ideas they jump into the project enthusiastically only to realize later that those ideas won’t work with their current landscape setup and they have to abandon the project. If you have small garden ideas for your yard, it’s a good idea to ask yourself a few key questions before you get started to save yourself time, trouble and money on your next landscaping project.

When professional landscape architects take a look at a new project, the first thing they want to do is develop a conceptual plan with the homeowner. There is fancy computer software to do this but most often a simple hand-sketched drawing will do just fine. This conceptual plan will lay out what is to be done, break down the project into the specific steps to be completed and specify the order in which those steps are to be completed.

This way you begin the project with the end in mind so the process of getting to your goal of a beautiful garden is more smooth and enjoyable. Another benefit of a properly constructed conceptual plan for your small garden ideas is that once the plan is outlined, you can tackle certain steps in the plan and not the entire project at once. This can be very handy if you can’t afford to complete the full project with all of your small garden ideas at one time or if you run into a weather constraint due to the changing of seasons making it difficult to plant or excavate.

What is the first question you should ask when designing a conceptual plan around your small garden ideas?

One very important consideration in designing a small garden is the concept of location. Where your small garden is located in relation to the house has a significant impact on what you will want to plan there.

To get the best results, ask yourself which direction the garden is facing. Different plants, flowers, grasses and trees will thrive under different conditions and by knowing which direction the garden will face, you will be able to incorporate the best plant choices into your small garden design.

For a small garden that faces north, planting can be a challenge for many homes. Northern exposure tends to be difficult for a small garden because many plants have a hard time growing in this filtered light environment or will grow but not bloom and thrive.

Good plant choices for a small North-facing garden would be: shade loving plants like Rhododendrons and Camellias as well as, heuchera, autumn fern, and hydrangea. Avoid tropical plants and most grasses that thrive in direct sunlight.

For a small garden that faces South, there are many more options for including a dynamic range of yard plants that take full advantage of the increased exposure of the sun.

Good plant choices for South-facing small garden design would fit in well with: a micro climate landscape theme that can be tropical, Mediterranean or dessert in nature.

For East-facing small garden design, you will want to stick to shade plants and plants that enjoy the morning sun as opposed to the scorching afternoon sun.

Good plant choices for East-facing small garden design would be Bromelias, schefflera, and Philodendron plants.

For West-facing small garden design, you want to stick to plants that enjoy the scorching afternoon sun. Any plant that loves the sun and needs less water will be a good choice here.

Good plant choices for West-facing small gardens would be: Lavanders, Echium, or Phormium plants. Also any types of grasses, and Mellaluca will thrive in this setting.

[ad_right]

What is the second question you should ask when designing a conceptual plan around your small garden ideas?

Another major consideration in the design of small gardens has to do with the function of the space. Is it for entertaining? Will you need room for guests, a barbecue pit, or an ample seating area? Will access be needed to the area? If you will be entertaining how many people do you want to be able to accommodate in the space? Will they be smoking? Are there views that you want to preserve, take advantage of or accentuate?

All of these function related questions should be asked and evaluated when putting together your conceptual landscape design plan.

Where can you get more help with small garden ideas?

 

More Backyard Designs

More Backyard Designs
[ad_left]

If the thought of dreaming up and then implementing new backyard desigbs fills you with dread never fear, we have a few suggestions to help you get started. If your backyard landscape is dreary or plain and you don’t want to spend a lot of time or money, read on this post is for you.

The backyard can be one of the most prized aspects of home ownership. It’s a place where you entertain friends with a delicious barbeque, swing in the hammock on a warm summer day or simply doze off while reading a good book. Unfortunately, when your backyard landscape is more ugly mess than sanctuary, it’s hard to truly enjoy this prized bit of real estate.

The good news is that it’s not hard to come up with good backyard designs and implementing them can be a snap.

Good backyard designs begin with a plan for how you would like to use the space. You can invest in software to help you with this process. There are several good programs available through Amazon.com. Or you can simply sketch out your ideas yourself on a scrap of paper.

As you begin to sketch out your backyard designs, here are some things to keep in mind:

Don’t get overwhelmed. If you have a big yard, consider breaking it up into sections and working on a section each year until the project is finished. This is a particularly good strategy if you are doing all of the work yourself and have a limited season to work on your backyard landscape.

Remember what your overall objectives are for your backyard retreat. Do you like to entertain and have cookouts? Then you may need to have more open space in your yard and a backyard landscape design that focuses on plants and shrubs around the borders of your yard may make the most sense.

If you don’t need the open space, consider an island flower bed, walkway ideas with solar lights, or comfortable furniture that you can rest in.

[ad_right]

If you enjoy wildlife and think having wild butterflies float across your yard would be desirable, take a look at the National Wildlife Federation’s website for plants that attract different wildlife. You can create a nice flower bed that is filled with plants that will have butterflies filling your yard in no time.

Keep it simple. One simple strategy for beautifying your backyard landscape is to simply surround your patio with shrubs and or flowering plants.

It is always nice to have plants that are native to your area in mind as you sketch out your backyard ideas. A quick Google search or trip to your local nursery can provide you with a wide variety of options.

How to find more backyard designs.

A simple Google search for “Backyard Designs” can reveal dozens of pictures and ideas that you can incorporate into your plan. You can also search home and garden magazines, or tour other nearby houses for additional backyard ideas.

It doesn’t have to be difficult or expensive to create and bring your backyard ideas to life, all you need is a manageable plan and some fresh ideas

0000000

Japanese Garden Stone Basins

[ad_left]

Japanese Garden Stone Basins Arrangement - Tsukubai

Tsukubai are found in Japanese gardens of all types and sizes. A tsukubai is an arrangement of a stone water basin and stones, often with a bamboo spout pouring water.

Tsukubai - Japanese Garden Stone Basins arrangement

A tsukubai is an arrangement found in very many Japanese gardens involving a stone water basin and four surrounding stones. A tsukubai provides a very Japanese touch for your garden.

'Tsukubai' literally means 'stooping basin' or 'crouching basin'; the stone basin (chozubachi) is placed on the ground, near the entrance to a garden or tea ceremony room, and guests stoop or crouch to wash their hands and rinse their mouths at the tsukubai before entering.

Often tsukubai have bamboo ladles placed across the top of the stone basin, and water pouring into the basin from a bamboo pipe (kakei). They usually have small pebbles scattered around the base, and larger stones placed around the tsukubai area – stones are very important in Japanese gardening.

[ad_right]

The basic tsukubai Japanese Garden Stone Basins arrangement has a large flat stone in front of the basin for the guest to stand on, small stones to either side where he can rest his lantern and perhaps a bowl of hot water, and a large standing stone at the back to provide contrast and balance. Often a stone lantern is placed at the back of the arrangement too – the strong vertical alignment of the lantern is also good for contrast and balance with the flat alignment of the tsukubai.

The area between the stones is called the 'sea', and is usually covered with pebbles or coarse sand/gravel. So when the tsukubai is arranged like this it's called a 'centre of sea' arrangement because the basin is in the middle of the sea. The alternative tsukubai arrangement is 'edge of sea', where the basin is placed – you guessed it – on the edge of the sea.

3 Easy Care Flower bed ideas

[ad_left]

Flower Bed Ideas: Soil and Drainage Tips

Nothing caps off a beautiful yard like an exquisite flower bed, but don’t be tempted to jump in and try on flower bed ideas without considering the basics. Professional landscape architects always start with soil and drainage considerations in order to guarantee the best results when they bring their flower bed ideas to life. If you fail to take this step, you could end up with a swampy mess after the first rain or a barren mound of dirt where nothing will grow despite your best gardening efforts.

Flower bed ideas: soil considerations

When evaluating the soil conditions of a flower bed there are two major considerations to keep in mind: how porous the soil is, and the PH level.

When evaluating the porosity of soil the two most common types of soil you will run into are clay and sandy loam. Although there are many different variations based on combinations of these two soils, most often you will find that your flower bed soil will fall into one of these categories.

The best way to test what type of soil you have is to press together a handful of moist soil from your flower bed. If it sticks together and clumps, it has a high clay content which is not the most favorable environment to nurture a flower bed. If it breaks apart and crumbles this is a good sign and an indication that the clay content is low.

Clay soil is denser and doesn’t absorb water like sandy loam. As a result, if your soil has high clay content it is best not to leave sprinklers on as long when watering because the water will simply run off and not be absorbed. The best practice for watering a flower bed with a high clay content is to break up the watering into 2 equal segments which are each half as long. For example, if you were going to water for 20 minutes, break this up into two – 10 minute segments at different times of the day to maximize absorption into clay soil.

Sandy loam is a soil type that is most common in California. One of the ways you can tell if you have sandy loam is after a 15 minute rain you will see that the water has absorbed into the flower bed. On the other hand, if the clay content is high, you would have run off.

Next you will want to check the PH level of your flower bed. Get a good PH test kit from your local nursery or you can find a wide selection of PH test kits on Amazon.com.

If it turns out that the soil in your flower bed is acidic you have two choices: work with the soil, or neutralize it with gypsum. If you decide to work with the soil you will want to look for plants that like acidic PH such as, azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, and hydrangeas. See below for instructions on neutralizing with gypsum if you decide to go that route.

If you have highly alkaline soil your options are limited as to what will grow in your flower bed. Pine trees and mountainous trees will thrive in alkaline soil but most plants and flowers will not take in water or fertilizer in this environment. What you want to do is neutralize the soil with gypsum.

Neutralizing flowerbed soil with gypsum and other nutrients: the landscapers secret for a beautiful flower bed

Gypsum is a mineral that plays a variety of important roles in your garden soil. First, it can help to loosen up clay soils to help improve air and water penetration. Next it can aid in minimizing salt damage to plants. It can also promote root growth by repelling the small insects that feed on fragile plant roots and maximize the beneficial effects of fertilizer. You can click here for excellent organic garden gypsum to try.

You will also want to include mycorrhizal inoculums to your flower bed along with organic gypsum. The addition of these beneficial bacteria will make roots grow twice as long for healthier plants and longer lasting blooms. Here is an excellent mycorrhizal inoculums mixture to try.

One last way to loosen soil with a high clay content is to add organic matter to your soil. Of course plants need nutrients to grow, but what is not as well known is that for a long-lasting growth cycle and healthy flowers you will want to have two different types of fertilizer in your soil.

Steer manure is an excellent source of nutrients and it is picked up very quickly by the plants because it is already broken down by the digestive process of the steer. Unfortunately since it is already broken down, it will only last three to four months before it’s nutrient value is dissipated. For longer lasting nutrient value your fertilizer should include organic matter in addition to steer manure. Organic matter breaks down slower and will provide highly beneficial nutrients to your flowers for years.

[ad_right]

Flower bed ideas: drainage considerations

Most plants need good drainage to thrive and when you are planning your flower bed ideas, here are a few pointers to follow.

Start by noticing where your flower bed will be located. Will it be at the bottom of your property? Is your entire property at the bottom of a hill? If so, consider incorporating French drains into your flower bed ideas in order to channel excess water away from the flower bed. A French drain is simply a trench dug around the flower bed that can be filled to ground level with fragments of brick, or rocks. Ideally this drain will lead away from the house and away from the flower bed to keep water from pooling in either area.

Another rule of thumb that professional landscape architects employ is the 5% drainage rule. This rule simply implies that you should have a 5% grade leading away from the house and or flower bed to avoid pooling water. In general, you should never plant in standing water unless you are growing rice or swamp foliage. What this looks like in practice is for every 100 feet in distance, the level of the soil should fall by 5 feet. This will produce a 5% grade and provide adequate drainage for your flower bed.

So always remember to start any new flower bed project by reviewing the soil and drainage guidelines in this post. If you follow these guidelines you will ensure that your flower bed ideas turn out just as beautiful in real life as you had planned them on paper.

Bamboo Fountains and Spouts

[ad_left]

Bamboo Fountains and Spouts (kakei)

Bamboo Fountains and Spouts (kakei) are very common in Japanese gardens. They can be used wherever running water is wanted - over ponds, Japanese stone basins, or as part of a tsukubai or shishi odoshi.

Kakei bamboo spouts

Bamboo spouts are a perfect water feature for a rustic style Japanese garden, and they're small enough for even a tiny urban garden. You can use them over a Japanese stone basin, as part of a tsukubai or pouring into a pond. There's also a kind of bamboo fountain called a shishi odoshi, or deer scarer, which makes a rhythmic noise.

[ad_right]

Natural bamboo is beautiful, and distinctively Japanese. As with all Japanese garden ornaments, bamboo fountains will weather, and this is part of their charm. However, bamboo tends to split over time if water is running through it, so typically a plastic pipe is used inside the bamboo fountain or spout to protect the bamboo. You may also want to varnish or oil your bamboo fountain before use. Varnish will last longer, but has a harder finish.

Normally, all you need to power a bamboo fountain is a small garden pump – look on the box for the 'head height' – this is how high the pump can lift water, so this number needs to be bigger than the distance from your reservoir to the top of the bamboo spout. See how to make a Japanese water feature for more information about pumps and reservoirs.

Shishi odoshi

The shishi-odoshi or deer chaser is intended to scare off animals and birds, but it's mostly used as an ornament. Water pours from one bamboo spout into another, causing the second spout to tilt back and forth and making a rhythmic knocking sound. More about shishi odoshi.

Japanese Garden Ornaments

[ad_left]

Japanese garden ornaments are the quickest way to give your garden a Japanese touch. A stone lantern or basin instantly makes you think of Japanese gardens. Different ornaments suit different types of Japanese garden - small or large, formal or rustic.

Japanese Garden Ornaments

Japanese garden ornaments tend to be built out of natural materials like stone and bamboo – metal is not so common. They're also intended to weather, changing colour, gathering moss. When placing your Japanese garden ornaments, think about where they would naturally be needed. For example, a stone lantern feels more natural if you place it somewhere where light would be useful, such as besides a path.

If you combine your Japanese Garden Ornaments with other Japanese elements, it will be much more effective and feel much more natural.

Stone lanterns

Probably the best known kind of Japanese garden ornament, stone lanterns come in a range of styles and sizes, from large, ornate, formal temple lanterns to cute little okidora to rustic lanterns made of natural boulders. They can be lit, but don't need to be. These days a range of stone lanterns can be easily found outside Japan.

Stone towers and pagodas

This is probably the most dramatic and formal of Japanese garden ornaments. They won't sit so well in a rustic style Japanese garden. Japanese stone towers were originally spiritual pieces, but these days are often used purely decoratively. Japanese stone towers are usually square, but sometimes hexagonal or octagonal. They always have an odd number of levels. Five levels is plenty for a small garden. Stone towers work well by ponds and streams, as the strong vertical alignment contrasts well with the horizontal alignment of the water. They also make lovely reflections in a still pond.

Stone buddhas

These do work well in a less formal setting, if they're not too big. I find it's lovely to come across a small stone buddha somewhere off the beaten track – following a winding path through trees and bushes, for example – half-hidden by grasses or bushes. You can also get bigger ones, which feel more formal.

Signposts

In a real Japanese garden, these direct the visitor. In a western Japanese-inspired garden, the chances of anyone being able to read the kanji are rare, but they still make nice ornaments. As with other Japanese garden ornaments, place them somewhere that makes sense – at a junction or a turn in the path. The more weathered and moss-covered the better. Japanese garden ornaments are always at their most lovely when it looks like they've been in place for years and years. Japanese signposts are usually a single column, read downwards, and can be made of wood or stone.

[ad_right]

Stone basins

Japanese stone basins come in a range of styles. Some are so simple that they will blend in well in any garden. They can be used on their own, or as part of a tsukubai.

Rain chains

Rain chains are both beautiful and practical. One of the few metal Japanese garden ornaments, they are Japan's answer to drain pipes, and much more attractive.

Bamboo spouts

Aside from larger elements like streams and ponds, bamboo spouts are the usual Japanese water feature. They are used in tsukubai, shishi odoshi, or on their own.

Japanese Stone Basins

[ad_left]

Japanese Stone Basins (chozubachi)

Stone basins are one of the most common features of a Japanese garden, found in even the tiniest urban spaces. They're also often found at the entrance to a teahouse, for the guests to wash their hands.

Japanese Stone Basins - Water

Japanese stone water basins (chozubachi) make a beautiful addition to any garden, and even the tiniest space can fit one. Stone basins only grow more beautiful over time as the stone gradually becomes weathered. If you place them somewhere cool and damp they will also collect a lovely layer of moss.

Japanese Stone Basins were originally used at temples for ritual purification. This then became part of the tea ceremony preparations, and soon stone basins were popular in all kinds of Japanese garden.

The best material for Japanese Stone Basins is granite, which is very tough and weathers well.

Like all elements of Japanese gardening, Japanese Stone Basins come in formal, informal and rustic styles. Here are a few different kinds of Japanese stone basin.

Tetsubachi stone basin

This is a favourite kind of Japanese Stone Basins, and the kind used in the tsukubai in any garden. It has a lovely round shape, wider at the top than the bottom.

Natsume-bachi stone basin

This is another round basin, but a tall one, taller than it is wide.

[ad_right]

Mountain stone basins

Some tsukubai aren't shaped, but rather are made from natural stones or boulders, with a little hole carved in the top to form the basin. These are some of the most beautiful tsukubai, in my opinion. They're perfect for a rustic style garden. Being made from natural stones, they come in all shapes and sizes.

Zenigata misubachi

This is a Japanese Stone Basin which is shaped like a coin – round, with a square hole, and japanese kanji on it.

Kiku-bachi stone basin

Kiku means crysanthemum, and that's the shape of this tsukubai.

Stone dish

This is just what it sounds like – a round, flat dish, rather than a basin.

Design Japanese Garden

[ad_left]

Here are some basic principles of Japanese garden design to bear in mind when creating your garden.

Kyoto garden

Nature comes first

The Japanese garden is all about nature. You're trying to Design Japanese Garden to create a perfect piece of nature in miniature. So lines are curving and organic; stone and wood is left to weather; objects are placed in odd numbers. Also, everything in your garden should be appropriate for the location. So the stones you use should ideally be of a type that's found locally; ditto for your plants.

Simplicity

Less is more. Japanese gardens are never fussy. This is especially true in rustic style gardens, where simplicity is revered.

Balance

There should be a harmonious balance in all things: between vertical lines and horizontal; soft and hard; wet and dry; objects and space; high, mid and low level elements. There should also be a balance in terms of size: if your garden is small, the elements within it must be small; if it's large, you should use larger rocks and ornaments. Everything in balance.

Asymmetry

You don't find symmetry in natural landscapes, so we don't use it Japanese gardens.

[ad_right]

Emptiness

Empty space is a feature in and of itself. If there are too many elements in your garden, it's definitely not going to feel Japanese. You need the proper balance between space and stuff.

Seasonality

Design Japanese Garden and enjoy all year round. Spring and summer are easy; but in autumn you can enjoy the falling leaves, and in winter, if you've planned the shape and structure of your garden carefully, it will look truly magnificent under its layer of snow.

Meigakure

Meigakure means that you never see the whole garden at once. The different areas of the garden are partly concealed. This creates a feeling of space, nature, and mystery.

[ad_left]

Here are the basic Japanese Garden Elements:
Stone

The heart of a Japanese garden is not plants, but stone. When creating your Japanese garden, the first thing to do is choose and place your stones. Then plan the planting around them.

Stones should always be placed in odd groupings, and there should be balance between types of stone (vertical, horizontal, leaning, etc).

Water

Water's always present in a Japanese garden – if not literally (streams, pools, water features) then metaphorically (dry gardens – stone and gravel gardens – have areas which represent the sea, a pond, or a stream).

[ad_right]

Plants

The stones are the permanent bones of the garden. The plants are the part that changes with the seasons. In a Japanese garden, the plants should be ideally be local species. Make sure to choose high, low, and mid-level plants, a mixture of textures, and plants which will be interesting in different seasons.

Japanese Garden Ornaments

A stone lantern or basin is a quick way to make your garden feel Japanese. Like everything else, they should fit the feel of the garden.

Japanese Garden Fence

[ad_left]

Japanese Garden Fence is a more complicated subject than I can ever hope to understand. It's a real art form, with over a hundred different styles of fence, many truly ancient in design. Even the knots are a work of art. But here's an overview.

Japanese Garden Fence

As always, there are formal, semi-formal, and informal types of Japanese Garden Fence. Some fences will be suggestive of a rustic setting, others are more appropriate to a temple setting.

Texture is important in the Japanese Garden Fence. For example, you might choose a fence to contrast in texture with the plants around it, and vice versa.

Japanese fence knot Traditional fences can be very expensive, and so can bamboo for making fences. If your budget won't stretch to the real thing, reed or twig sheeting can now be bought pretty inexpensively at garden centres, and so you can create a fence with the feel of a certain kind of Japanese fence by stapling or wiring that kind of sheeting to your existing garden boundary.

Types of Japanese Garden Fence

At the broadest level, there are two kinds of Japanese Garden Fence. Oo-gaki is continuous fencing – what we think of as fencing, ie it forms a long boundary. Sode-gaki, on the other hand, are screen fences: a single panel of fencing, used to screen off an area of the garden. They're often used at the end of a verandah, or beside a tsukubai. They're usually about 3 or 4 feet wide, and about 6 foot high. They come in a huge range of styles, each with its own name. Some are rectangular, many have a curve at the top corner which is away from the wall.

Types of Oogaki Japanese Garden Fence

Here are a few types of oogaki:

Kenninji japanese fenceKenninji fence

A formal fence, named after a famous temple in Kyoto. It's made of quartered bamboo placed vertically very close together, and is held together with horizonal bamboo bars and hemp rope.

Teppo gaki

Another formal fence. Teppo ('tube' or 'musket') fences are made from whole bamboo pipes. Unlike Kenninji fences, there are small gaps between the bamboo. The pipes are also offset in two rows, so for example you might have three pipes at the front and three behind, repeating.

Taimatsu gaki

Taimatsu (torch) fences are semi-formal, and made from bundles of twiggy branches tied together vertically.

YotsumegakiYotsume gaki

Yotsume (four-eyes) fences are informal, and made from narrow pieces of bamboo tied together in a loose square lattice. They tend to be short, and you can see right through them. Here's an article which shows the construction of a yotsume fence – it's one of the easier ones to try at home.

Yarai gaki

Yarai (stockade) fencing is informal. It's a bit like yotsume turned through 45 degrees – it's another lattice, but with diamonds instead of squares. It doesn't have a horizontal pole across the top – the ends of the bamboo stick out a little way, looking like the stockade fence it's named for.

[ad_right]

Types of Sodegaki

Here are a few types of sodegaki:

Like the teppo-gaki described above, these are made with large whole bamboo pipes.

Chasengaki

'Tea whisk fence' – like taimatsu gaki, these are made from bundles of branches, arranged vertically.

Japanese Koi Pond

A Japanese koi pond is a beautiful thing which will give you hours of peaceful pleasure.
[ad_left]

Japanese Koi Pond

Koi fish ponds are a classic Japanese garden feature. The pond in a Japanese hill and pond garden is often a koi pond. Koi have a special place in the Japanese heart, as the word 'koi' sounds like another word that means 'affection or love', so koi are symbols of love and friendship to the Japanese.

Japanese koi ponds are wonderfully tranquil, and this fits perfectly with the general mood of Japanese gardens. And not only are koi very beautiful (often called 'living jewels'), but their peaceful movements help reduce stress.

The exception to those tranquil movements is feeding time – koi are a lot of fun to feed because they really go crazy over food! Kids especially love feeding koi, so if you have it's a nice idea to create a special feeding place for your Japanese koi pond where the water is shallower, so that kids can feed the koi safely.

Koi are a kind of carp, and the Japanese word koi actually just means carp. The Japanese word for the colourful fish that we call koi is actually nishiki-goi. There are many varieties of koi and they come in a range of colours: classically, orange, yellow and white, but also black, grey, and blue.



[ad_center]

Koi live a long time – about thirty years on average, though with good care they can live much longer – 230 years is the oldest on record. A Japanese koi pond is a long-term investment!

You can apply the same design principles to your Japanese koi pond as to the rest of your garden. Here are some ideas for Japanese Koi Pond design.

Japanese Stone Lanterns

[ad_left]

Nothing says Japanese garden like Japanese Stone Lanterns! Japanese Stone Lanterns are an easy way to give a Japanese touch to your garden, and if you combine it with other Japanese garden elements, it will be even more effective.

Japanese Stone Lanterns

For a natural Japanese feel, it's best to place your stone lantern somewhere where light would theoretically be needed – beside a path, near a porch, or with a Japanese stone basin arrangement (tsukubai).

It's good to bear in mind the feel of your garden as a whole, too – if your garden is informal and natural then a rustic or simple stone lantern would blend well, if you garden is formal then a more elaborate style might go better.

Granite or hard sandstone are the best materials for a Japanese lantern; they're durable and weather nicely. Because they're made of stone, Japanese garden lanterns are very heavy, so they're usually made in separate pieces for easier transportation and set-up.

There are hundreds of different kinds of japanese stone lantern, but there are three basic types:

1. Tachi-gata. These lanterns sit on a base, and are fairly formal.
2. Ikekomi-gata. These lanterns have their pedestals (sao) buried right in the ground, and are less formal.
3. Okidora. These are small lanterns which are easily moved. The have no pedestal, but are placed on a stone or straight on the ground.

Here are some specific styles of Japanese Stone Lanterns:

Yukimi-gata

This is my favourite kind of Japanese stone lantern. Yukimi means 'snow viewing'; viewing natural things is a big part of traditional Japanese culture, whether it's snow, cherry blossoms or the moon! Yukimi lanterns have wide tops, perfect for snow to settle on, and so look especially beautiful in the winter. They can be round in shape, or hexagonal like a pagoda, but they always have a wide, curving top. They have little legs rather than a solid base, and are often placed near water.

[ad_right]

Misaki-gata

The misaki-gata is a cute little stone lantern without a pedestal – an okidora. It's often placed on a 'spit of land' – a low-lying bit of land sticking out into a lake.

Kasuga lanterns

Kasuga lanterns are tachi-gata, or pedestal lanterns – they sit on a stone base. They're often used as focal points at intersections and can be very fancy.

Miyoshi lanterns

These are ikekomi-gata, or buried lanterns – they're planted right in the ground. They're great planted along paths or at gates.

Kotoji lanterns

Kotoji means 'harp tuner', and kotoji have two long legs which look like tuning forks. Usually one leg is placed on land and the other on water to emphasise the difference. A very dramatic style.

Oribe lanterns

This is a style of ikekomi lantern designed by Lord Furuta Oribe, who was a famous tea master in the 16th century. Oribe lanterns are square in shape and are planted straight into the ground. Sometimes their front and back openings are covered with shoji (paper screens), and the right and left openings are a crescent moon and full moon.

Yamadoro

Yamadoro is a very informal type of lantern. Instead of being carved, yamadoro lanterns are made of natural stones, collected and put together to form a lantern shape. This is the most rustic style.

Sangatsu-do lanterns

Sangatsu-do lanterns are temple entrance lanterns, and are also used at the entrance to teahouses. They're pedestal lanterns.

Rankei lanterns

Rankei lanterns are placed beside water. They have a base stone and a long, curved stone pedestal so that the actual stone lantern hangs out over the water, creating a beautiful reflection.

Japanese Garden Styles

[ad_left]

Japanese gardens aren't all the same - they come in different styles. There are four basic types of garden, and three levels of formality. In a big Japanese garden, you'll see several different garden types and styles.

Japanese Garden Styles - Types of Japanese garden

Sand and stone garden (karesansui)

This is probably the best known kind of Japanese garden, and one of the ones that people are most likely to think of when someone says 'Japanese garden'. A sand and stone garden is made up of a few key stones carefully place, and raked sand or gravel around them.

Karesansui means 'dry landscape', and the arrangement of sand and stones is intended to represent a landscape in miniature. The raked gravel usually represents water – a sea, pond, or river, with the stones and/or moss-covered mounds representing islands.

The value that Japanese gardeners place on empty space can especially be seen in sand and stone gardens. This makes them especially peaceful and suitable for contemplation or meditation, and in the west they are often called 'Zen gardens', though their proper name is karesansui. In Japan, sand and stone gardens are often found in temple and monastery gardens.

Hill and pond strolling gardens (chisen-kaiyu-skiki)

Hill and pond strolling gardenIn the Heian period, hill and pond gardens were designed to be seen from a boat on the pond, but from the Edo period, they became gardens which were intended to be walked around. So a hill and pond strolling garden is designed to be seen from many different perspectives, as one walks around it. The path and the views are carefully planned out together. Sometimes these gardens are created to represent a particular landscape – a favourite region, or the land of ones birth.

Flat garden (hira-niwa)

Flat courtyard gardenFlat gardens are a development of sand and stone gardens. They're found in front of pavillions and temples, and are often laid out to be seen from the verandah of the building. They usually have an area of sand and stone, laid out as if it were a lake or sea, with a 'shore' or slightly raised earth around it, with trees and other plants. Shrubs may be clipped to suggest hills or mountains.

Tea gardens (cha-niwa or roji-niwa)

The tea ceremony is all about being completely present in the moment: appreciating the tea, the bowl, the guests. Tea gardens are designed to help guests step into the right state of mind, with tranquility and simplicity.

Tea Tea gardens are always rustic (as opposed to formal). The guest enters through a gate, where he steps from the busy everyday world into the quiet world of the tea garden. He follows a winding path (roji) through the garden to a waiting place (machiai) – a small building or bench – where he waits for his host and contemplates his surroundings. He is then taken into the inner garden, and past a tsukubai (stone basin arrangement) where he washes his hands to purify himself before stepping into the teahouse itself.

This path, the roji (the outer path is soto-roji and the inner path is uchi-roji), and the mental journey it represents is so central to the experience of the tea ceremony that tea gardens are often refered to as roji-niwa – 'path gardens', as well as cha-niwa – 'tea gardens'.

[ad_right]

Japanese Garden Styles

As well as the types of garden I just described, 'Japanese garden styles' could also refer to the degree of formality of the garden. There are three levels of formality:

 

Shin – formal
Gyo – medium formality
So – informal / rustic
The level of formality that you choose affects every decision, as there are formal and rustic styles of ornament, building, path, etc. A temple or palace garden will almost be mostly formal, and tea gardens are always rustic.

Japanese Garden Waterfall

[ad_left]

Water is one of the key elements of Japanese gardening. There are many kinds of Japanese water feature, from simple stone basins to majestic waterfalls like Japanese Garden Waterfall.

Water is an essential feature in any Japanese garden. Even dry Japanese gardens feature stylised water represented by gravel, and other kinds of Japanese garden always have some kind of water feature. From a simple stone basins and bamboo spouts, to ponds, streams and Japanese Garden Waterfall, the range of options shows how important water features are to the Japanese.

Water features are simultaneously refreshing and relaxing, and offer beauty in sound as well as sight. In Japanese gardens, water is usually in motion. When it's relatively still, it's often used to create beautiful reflections, for example by aligning a pond so it will reflect the full moon. Japanese water features are always inspired by nature, such as streams and waterfalls, or by practical needs, such as water basins and rain chains, and sometimes both.

Making a Japanese water feature needn't be difficult or expensive. See my step by step instructions for how to make a Japanese water feature, which describes the method I used for the tsukubai in my garden.

There are many kinds of Japanese water feature, so you can find something to suit any sized garden or budget. Here are a few examples.

Stone basins and tsukubai.

Stone water basins are the perfect Japanese water feature for a tiny garden. You can place it on its own, or in the traditional arrangement known as a tsukubai.

Rain chains

Rain chains are the Japanese answer to drainpipes, and a lot more attractive. Beautiful and practical.

Bamboo spout and zenigataBamboo fountains and spouts (kakei).

Bamboo spouts are very common in Japanese gardens, and are especially perfect for a rustic style gardens. You'll find them pouring water into a Japanese stone basin, or pouring into a pond.

Shishi odoshi (deer scarer)

A very rustic water feature; a bamboo pipe which collects and then releases water, making a rhythmic knocking sound as it goes.

Ponds

In a Japanese garden, a pond can be simply a pond, or it can represent a shore line.

[ad_right]

Japanese Garden Waterfall

In a Japanese garden, a stream can represent the course of life itself. This water feature works best if you model it very closely on nature – for example, the steeper the slope, the faster the water runs, and the deeper it cuts.

If the larger waterworks required building this kind of water feature are more than you want to take on, you could consider making a symbolic stream out of flat rocks or gravel.

Fall Gardening Checklist

[ad_left]

Fall Flower And Gardening Checklist – Part 1

When Autumn comes, you have a hundred ways, to improve your garden… its looks, health, its prospects for next spring. Cool weather makes it easy to get things done: there is less rush than when you are are doing spring chores. Proper care now makes everthing easier in the spring. Here is a checklist of all gardening ideas to make it easy to be sure that everything is done. Take out your pen or pencil and mark the ideas that fit your garden, just as you make a list of things to order for fall planting.

THE LATE FLOWERS

Dahlias, chrysanthemums and roses need water now, but no fertilizer. Overfeeding may result in soft plants that may be injured by winter freezing. Dahlia roots may become too soft for storage. Dust them or spray with sulphur or an all purpose chemical to prevent mildew. Stake and tie tall plants against September winds.

LILIES

Madonna, canadense, martagon, superbum and the Washington lily, all known as base rooting, are planted in early autumn. The other, or stem-rooting kinds, are planted either in late autumn or early spring. Base rooting kinds start growing immediately. Cover the bulb top with no more than 3 inches of soil. The soil must be well drained.

PEONIES, IRIS, OTHER PERENNIALS

Peonies are also lifted, divided and replanted in autumn. The whole plant is carefully raised, the soil washed out from the roots and the plant separated into sections… each section or piece with no less than three eyes (buds); five to seven are better for there is more chance of flowering the next year. Peonies planted in fall get a good spring start.

Peonies need a rich deep soil. They should last for 25 years. Dried cattle manure, 4 parts, mixed with 1 part bone meal and worked in before planting will help, if the regular rotted manure is not available. When planting bury the buds no more than 1 inch deep. Peonies must have full sunshine for best results.

Roots of bleeding heart are handled similarly. Exceptionally brittle, they are more easily separated if allowed to dry somewhat in the sun.

Iris clumps can be, separated too, at this time. If the sections are not too small, three to four roots (rhizomes), they will flower next year.

Perennials of all kinds can be lifted, divided and replanted October to early November. Prepare the soil and incorporate manure or compost with bone meal and superphosphate before replanting.
[ad_right]

THE HARVEST: BULBS AND ROOTS

Cut the tops of dahlias, cannas, and tuberous begonias soon after the first frost. Leave 6 inches of a stub for handling dahlias. Begonias and cannas are stored with all possible soil on the roots to keep them from drying out. Ordinary cellar conditions are suitable.

Dahlia roots must dry slowly. Leave in a place out of the sun. When the soil dries on the roots, clean them off, reduce the old stem stub still more and store in peatmoss, ashes, or sawdust in a cool cellar or garage where they will not freeze.

Gladiolus can be lifted before frost, or as soon as the leaves turn brown. Dig with the leaves attached. Dry as soon as possible, then cut off the leaves, remove the paper-like covering from around the bulbs (corms) and, before storing, dust with an organic dust. Discard spotted and diseased corms, and the old shrivelled corms. Store in shallow boxes or mesh onion bags. Old nylon stockings do well too.

Fall Gardening Checklist

[ad_left]

Fall Gardening Checklist – Part 2

When preparing our flower beds and garden in the fall for the upcoming winter we do not want to forget about these! Here we review what to do now for your lawn, house plants, and planting shrubs and trees.

LAWNS

Seeding and feeding are best done now. There is less weed competition and grass grows best in most places, in autumn. Cut and remove crab grass before it sheds its seeds. Clean out other weeds too. Loosen the soil in bare patches, work in grass fertilizer or a complete plant food, then sow with a grass mixture suited to your conditions. If fall-planted grass gets an early, strong it can stand the late fall raking of leaves without damage.

Even on a good lawn, plant food and extra seed are advisable. For such "extra" growth use 3 pounds plant food and 1/4 pound grass seed to 100 square feet.

In making a new lawn in the fall, dig the area and mix peat moss and plant food with the surface soil. If extra topsoil is needed put on at least 2 inches. Rake and roll two or three times to get an even, firm surface. Sow 1/2 pound grass seed per 100 square feet. Rake and finally roll using a 200 pound roller.

HOUSE PLANTS

It’s time to take in house plants, and to dig up and pot others to be used indoors. Geraniums, actively growing petunias, and dwarf salvia are suitable. Cut away a third of the tops before digging: pot firmly, water, and keep in a warm place.

PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS

Transplant evergreens any time in September or early October. This applies to conifers, pine, spruce, hemlock and the like and the broad-leaved kinds: rhododendrons, mountain laurel, azaleas and similar plants. All growth has matured. The plants come with a ball of soil. Set the plants at same depth they were in the nursery. Their roots are near the surface and will be injured if buried deeply. All must be watered thoroughly and the soil packed against the ball. Mix good soil with peat moss or humus plus a handful of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant.

[ad_right]

Late September and October is also time for ordering and transplanting the deciduous (leaf dropping) trees and shrubs. The few possible exceptions are magnolia, birch, cherry and dogwood, although when dug from the nursery dogwood is safe.

Unless the trees or shrubs are large, a ball of soil is not necessary. Most shade and flowering trees up to 10 feet high can be transplanted bareroot. However, keep the roots moistened until planted. Pack screened soil between the roots and flood with water. Single stemmed trees planted this way should be secured to two stakes.

Fall Gardening Checklist

[ad_left]

Fall Gardening Checklist – Part 3

Before we wrap up this Fall Gardening Checklist series we wanted to give you a few more valuable and important tips. These are things you should also be preparing to take care of during the autumn and before the cold arrives.

VEGETABLE STORAGE

Beets, carrots, parsnips, potatoes (late) must be stored in a cool place. All except the potatoes could stay outdoors for a longer time by ridging soil over the rows in the garden. Other means of storage are pits dug in the ground and the vegetables covered with boards and hay. For small lots bushel baskets, or boxes submerged in the ground will do. Celery can be kept by covering with soil in the row. Cabbage is best dug and put in a cold cellar or pit.

Eggplant, peppers, and pumpkins must be stored where the temperature is mild. Tomatoes picked before frost and individually wrapped in newspaper will ripen in 2 weeks.

Radishes, lettuce, endive and other greens can be carried along in the garden for some time by covering each evening with cardboard, burlap, or the more enduring plastic sheeting.

COMPOST AND HUMUS

All but diseased and insect-infested material can be composted. Burn all questionable material. Leaves can be put in a separate heap if there is space, or all materials mixed in one pile. Begin with a bottom layer of coarse leaves, corn stalks, or dried stems. Next spread layer of the mixed materials 6 inches deep. Sprinkle a pound or more of any fertilizer, compost activator, or dried cow or chicken manure over 4×5 foot surface, then a thin layer of soil. Wet thoroughly.

Repeat layer by layer to build the pile. A 5 foot height is enough. The pile can be as long as desired. Keep the width to 6 feet. Mulching attachments for power tools are handy for fall work.

The humus supply in the soil is increased too, by sowing rye, or rye grass seed on areas left vacant by removal of crops in the garden. Three pounds per 1,000 square feet is ample. Rake the seed in, as in lawn making. Rolling is not necessary.

SOIL IMPROVEMENT

Before hard frost threatens, dig the soil and leave rough over winter. Where manure or compost is available, spread and dig in. Stiff soil is especially benefited. If soil needs lime, this is applied as ground, or pulverized limestone, 3 pounds per 100 square feet. It is merely spread over the surface after digging.

Soil on sloping ground must be covered to prevent washing. A cover crop of rye, a layer of compost, leaves, hay or the like will prevent erosion. Fall is a good time to dig in soil conditioners.

PROTECTION

In winter protection of outdoor hardy and semi-hardy plants, no covering is applied until all growth has ceased. Growth is ended by frost which opens tissue and prepares the plants for winter. Roses can be covered after several frosts, by mounding the soil up and around the base of the stems. Not all northern rose growers agree on covering, but I prefer it. The pink spirea (caryopteris), shrubs like the crape myrtle of the South, and those of similar tenderness are also covered.

The stems are tied loosely together with soft twine or burlap strips and wrapped with burlap. Where winters are severe, hay is used inside first, then burlap, or chicken wire surrounding the shrub. Fill with dry leaves and top with a piece of canvas. An inverted bushel basket stuffed with leaves is the best for low plants.

Climbing roses are protected where the winter temperatures go below zero. The stems are taken down from their sup-ports, tied together, laid on the ground and covered with 3 inches of soil.

It’s a practice in extremely cold sections to loosen the roots on one side and tip the whole plant over into a trench. No bending can be done when the stems are frozen. They will snap off. So do it early. Pansies and English daisies are covered with marsh (salt) hay.

EVERGREENS

These are protected in a different way and for a different reason. Exposed to winds, the leaves dry out, especially if the roots are in frozen soil. Protection consists in covering the root area with a mulch of leaves, and using a wind barrier of some sort. Burlap attached to stakes, branches of pines pushed into the ground, or smaller ones tied to several stems of the plants serve to break the wind.

[ad_right]

PERENNIAL PROTECTION

Last to be covered are strawberries, hardy perennials, and rock garden plants. This is best done when ground is frozen. Covered while still soft, the plants will rot.

Soft crowned plants: delphinium, columbine, liatris, anchusa, are best covered with a cone of coal ashes, or 3 parts of soil mixed with one part of sand.

Others are covered with a light layer of marsh hay held in place with light twiggy branches. Provision must be made for water to drain off and not collect around the plants in prolonged wet weather.

Beds of spring flowering bulbs must also wait until they are thoroughly frozen before being covered else mice may harbor there for the winter.

SNOW PROTECTION

Bushy evergreens are, in regions of heavy snows, prone to injury when deep snow collects in the interior splitting them apart. Strips of burlap wound spirally around will give some protection. Tying the stems to each other in the interior is still better.

TREE PROTECTION

The stems of fruit trees, especially those newly planted, are in danger of having the bark peeled off by rabbits and mice during winter. Surround these with a band of close meshed chicken wire 2 feet high. Newly planted shade and flowering tree stems are wrapped with burlap strips, or the special craft paper used by tree men. This is protection against frost injury and the action of freezing winds.

Be prepared and ready to go with your fall flower gardening protection plans. You will be thankful you did come next spring!

Flower Gardening Tips

[ad_left]

Flower Gardening Tips For A More Beautiful And Easier Garden Oasis

Welcome to Flower Gardening Tips, where the flower gardening advice you learn about here should have your garden growing splendidly all throughout the year. On our site you will find a variety of information about growing all types of flowers and plants, how to care for your flowers and plants, how to choose the right flowers and plants, and much, much more.

You Can Find Our Most Valuable Flower Gardening And Growing Resources Here

Also, if you have any tips or picture’s of some the flowers you are proud of please feel free to share them with us.

Now to get things started successfully, there are several things to consider before you even choose which flowers to plant. Those include:

• Climate
• The amount of sunlight the area receives
• Soil type and condition
• Water drainage
• Time for care and maintenance

Any of the first four factors can be overcome if you have the time. But, if you want a low maintenance garden, it makes sense to choose plants accordingly.

Seed packages and most seedlings bear labels concerning when to plant, what climates they will grow in and how much sunlight they need. But, before you go shopping for seeds, take the time to prepare the area and do a little planning.

In order to prepare the space for planting, you will need to turn the soil. Depending on the size of the area, you may be able to do this by hand, but you might want to rent a rotary tiller.

The blades of the tiller will break up hard clumps of dirt. Rocks will need to be removed by hand. Large stones can be removed as you are preparing the area. Smaller ones can be tossed outside the space as you are planting.

[ad_right]

Rocks and hard-packed earth interfere with growing seeds. They cannot push through to the surface.

One of the best gardening strategies is to start the seeds indoors, in potting soil, before planting time. You can use pots made of peat moss that can be placed directly into the prepared garden area. This reduces stress on the seedling and makes planting easier.

If you have an open area with full sun growing anything is easier. When you are planning the space, remember to plant tall species towards the center and shorter ones towards the outside, so that the smaller plants will continue to get as much sun, as possible, as time goes by.

Most people have a partly shady area, usually a bed next to their homes or around a tree. The best flower gardening tips for these areas is to plant with the sunlight. East-facing beds will have full-sun in the morning and lots of heat in most climates, while the afternoon is cooler. That combination is actually ideal for growing most flowers.

The novice gardener has a lot to learn. Hopefully, these few flower gardening tips will help. Make sure to visit the other sections of our site to discover even more tips on a variety of flower gardening topics. Remember, it’s a labor of love.

Caring For Roses

[ad_left]

In the spring gardeners have an almost overwhelming urge to start work in the rose garden. However, in cold regions including the temperate Central States, this ambition should be withheld until the danger of a hard freeze is past.

Here are some rose gardening tips to help you along. When caring for roses, on established rose plants the first job is to remove the winter protection… mounds of soil from around the base of each bush. This soil should be carried away and not spread on top of the rose bed.

Correct pruning of roses is also important. On floribunda and grandiflora types of roses all that is necessary is to remove dead wood and small twiggy growth. All dead and winter-killed wood should be pruned back to where the canes have light-green centers instead of brown centers typical of dead wood.

In addition to this pruning, hybrid teas should be cut back to about one-half their height. The cut is best when made just above a good outside eye. On standard climbing roses all that is necessary in early spring is to prune out all dead wood. Other pruning can be done after the major flowering period in June is past. This consists of removing some of the older canes at ground level in order to encourage new growth on which the best flowers will be formed the following year.

Cultivate about the bushes and feed with a good rose fertilizer. The bushes respond quicker to the fertilizer if it is watered in. Repeat fertilizer application about once each month starting in April and discontinuing about September 1.

New rose beds should be carefully prepared. Select a site away from trees or shrubs so that their roots do not rob the roses of moisture and nutrients. The area should be well drained and should receive at least six hours of daily sun. Prepare the area by spading to a depth of 18 inches and incorporating with the soil some peat-moss and well-rotted manure or rotted compost. In the root area of every bush mix with the soil two handfuls each of superphosphate and bonemeal.

Upon receipt of bare-root roses (plants without soil), examine them carefully and prune off any broken canes or roots. It is a good idea to submerge the roots in a large bucket of water for a couple of hours just prior to planting. If roses are purchased in pots remove them carefully so as not to disturb the roots or the soil.

Space bushes about 18 to 22 inches apart and dig holes 12 to 14 inches deep and 16 inches in diameter. Make a pyramid-shape mound of soil in each hole. Place the roots carefully about this mound and adjust the depth of the plant by raising or lowering the mound. A good rule to follow is to plant so that the graft or bud union is about 2 inches below the surface of the soil. Rose plants from pots are set at the same depth or slightly deeper than they were in the pot. Return enough of the soil to the hole so that the roots have about a 2-inch coverage. Press soil firmly against the roots with your hands and then fill the hole with water. After the water is absorbed fill the hole with the remaining soil.

Protect newly set bushes by mounding soil from another part of the garden at least 10-inches high around the canes. After new rose shoots begin to grow, gradually remove all this additional soil. Roses from pots usually do not require this protection.
[ad_right]

When caring for roses it is almost essential to follow a good program of spraying or dusting with insecticides and fungicides to keep them healthy and free of diseases. Start regular weekly applications as soon as leaves appear in spring. A good general rose spray combining insecticide and fungicide is usually very satisfactory. However, at certain times of the year it may be necessary to use a special spray or dust. Spray in the evenings after the heat of the day is past but early enough so the leaves will dry before the night dew appears. Be sure to make a complete coverage of both sides of all leaves.

In dry weather the rose beds should be watered thoroughly at least once each week. Use a water wand or let the water run slowly out of the end of the hose under the bushes.

Remove full-blown or spent flowers every day. Cut them 1/4 inch above a good eye which is located above a five-leaflet leaf. Burn or dispose of these spent blooms away from the rose garden.

Roses are a source of much enjoyment and a very healthful hobby. But like all queens, the queen of flowers requires attention and care and will respond in proportion to the attention you lavish upon her. Following the basics and the rose flower growing tips outlined here will ensure she does just that.

Cold Frame Gardening

[ad_left]

cold frame greenhouseDuring these short days of December, January and February take advantage of every mild day to give your garden cold frame a thorough ventilation. Plants with green leaves are never really dormant unless the temperature drops to freezing.

Pansies and sweet violets should be flowering now, provided the temperature is right. Remove blooms instead of allowing them to decay on the plants. Whenever feasible, stir the soil, especially if you have to give water. If violets seem tardy in flowering, don’t be concerned. They’ll pick up in January, when the sun gets higher, if the temperature can be kept at 40° to 45°. In a lower temperature, flowering will be delayed until around March.

By now you should be picking lettuce, Chinese cabbage and cress, the current problem with them being to keep the temperature above freezing. Little further development can be expected from these crops, nor is it advisable to try to carry them through winter. Cress and radishes will go to seed as soon as spring growth begins.

If the wooden frame greenhouse is used principally for carrying plants through the winter which are liable to damage outdoors, that’s another story. Simply cover cold frames over with hay or straw and leave them. Allow snow coverings to remain. In addition to pansies, biennials carried over in this way include English daisies, forget-me-nots and Canterbury bells. Perennials carried over include chrysanthemums and red-hot-pokers (kniphofia).
[ad_right]

The gardening cold frame design offers yet another possibility for usefulness… the propagation of trees and shrubs by means of hardwood cuttings. These are cuttings taken after leaf fall and after plant tissue has been subject to several frosts. The list of plants suitable for propagation by hardwood cuttings is extensive. It includes the mockorange, butterfly-bush, privet, chaste-tree (vitex) , rose-of-Sharon, willow, deutzia, weigela, false-spires (sorbaria), jetbead, flowering quince, hydrangea, tamarisk and many others. Currants, grapes and gooseberries are propagated by this method also.

Although the garden cold frame is ideal for this method of propagation, you may run into the problem of needing the frame in early spring for raising seedlings before it’s possible to transplant the cuttings to the garden. But the project fits in very well if you don’t plan to use the frame for seedlings before March.