Tips on Setting a Garden Pond
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Depending on the type and size of the water feature, positioning can be critical. Here is a list of things to avoid for all but the smallest of features.
Don’t excavate for a pond where there is a naturally high water table because the pressure from below will push the liner up, forcing the pond water out. You can work out the level of your water table by excavating a hole until you see water. It is best to do this in winter, when any water table will be higher than in summer.
Don’t position the pond under or close to deciduous trees. Autumn leaves will be a problem over a four to six week period.
Don’t site a large pond in full sun because it will attract green algae (which respond to sunlight). If there is no alternative site, in the northern hemisphere, you should plant a selection of bulky shrubs on the south side to cast shade over part of the surface of the water.
Don’t forget that for moving water, the pump will be powered by electricity. Consider access to household current and make sure you employ a qualified electrician.
Don’t construct the pond on sloping ground. The water surface will always be level, leaving the liner exposed at the highest end.
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Don’t undertake too major a job. Employ a contractor to do the heavy work.
Safety: remember that all electrical work must be undertaken by a qualified electrician. Water and electricity don’t mix well. Always switch the power supply off at the main before repairing or cleaning the pond, or servicing the pump.
Where there is concern for young children and the risk of accidents, cover the pond with galvanized wire mesh. This in turn may, for aesthetic reasons, be covered with water-worn, smooth river stones. Fencing the pond is a practical, if unattractive, alternative
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