Japanese Garden Stone Basins

[ad_left]

Japanese Garden Stone Basins Arrangement - Tsukubai

Tsukubai are found in Japanese gardens of all types and sizes. A tsukubai is an arrangement of a stone water basin and stones, often with a bamboo spout pouring water.

Tsukubai - Japanese Garden Stone Basins arrangement

A tsukubai is an arrangement found in very many Japanese gardens involving a stone water basin and four surrounding stones. A tsukubai provides a very Japanese touch for your garden.

'Tsukubai' literally means 'stooping basin' or 'crouching basin'; the stone basin (chozubachi) is placed on the ground, near the entrance to a garden or tea ceremony room, and guests stoop or crouch to wash their hands and rinse their mouths at the tsukubai before entering.

Often tsukubai have bamboo ladles placed across the top of the stone basin, and water pouring into the basin from a bamboo pipe (kakei). They usually have small pebbles scattered around the base, and larger stones placed around the tsukubai area – stones are very important in Japanese gardening.

[ad_right]

The basic tsukubai Japanese Garden Stone Basins arrangement has a large flat stone in front of the basin for the guest to stand on, small stones to either side where he can rest his lantern and perhaps a bowl of hot water, and a large standing stone at the back to provide contrast and balance. Often a stone lantern is placed at the back of the arrangement too – the strong vertical alignment of the lantern is also good for contrast and balance with the flat alignment of the tsukubai.

The area between the stones is called the 'sea', and is usually covered with pebbles or coarse sand/gravel. So when the tsukubai is arranged like this it's called a 'centre of sea' arrangement because the basin is in the middle of the sea. The alternative tsukubai arrangement is 'edge of sea', where the basin is placed – you guessed it – on the edge of the sea.

Benefits of Backyard Landscaping

[ad_left]

When people buy their dream household, the interiors stay their priority. The reason behind this really is that they spend most of the time inside their home and so would like to decorate the interiors in the most effective feasible way. Regrettably, most of the folks avoid decorating the outdoors space. It can be simply because they fail to understand how critical could be the exterior region of your residence.

Employ A professional Backyard Landscaping Gardener

Though it is actually an high-priced choice, it is possible to reap a whole lot of positive aspects if you employ an expert Backyard Landscaping gardener. Hiring a professional is usually a large financial investment. You might have to spend them a fairly great quantity. Therefore, you must be sure to employ a skilled professional who can completely transform the look of one’s backyard.

Advantages of Hiring A professional Landscape Gardener For your Backyard Landscaping

Aesthetics

One of the foremost advantages of hiring an expert is the fact that they could completely transform the look with the space. They are able to make the outdoors space appear wonderful together with the assist on the landscaping solutions. Landscapers are usually not only professionally trained to beautify the garden/ Backyard Landscaping but can also help you get a customized appear.

While an amateur gardener can generally do an excellent job, you can’t normally anticipate the very best services from them. As a result, it really is usually a great idea to employ an knowledgeable expert for the activity. Go through the credentials/client-testimonials prior to you determine to employ an expert.

[ad_right]

Add Worth To your Property

Don’t forget, initial impression normally counts. When you have a stunning and appealing lawn it’s going to certainly boost the value of the property. Moreover, in addition, it aids to have a far better price tag when you sell your home. When buyers stop by your home, it really is the lawn or exterior region which grabs their interest. Get your lawn landscaped with all the support of an expert for a long-lasting impression on your purchasers.

Save Your Time

Not only specialist landscapers enhance the value of your home, but also saves your time. They plan out every thing ahead of they go ahead together with the perform. This means that they’re able to complete the function promptly and effectively. On the other hand, a house gardener takes lots of time for you to program in detail and executes the operate gradually.

Among the key motives to have your garden revamped is the fact that you desire to relax and enjoy in the weekends. Landscaping not only adds worth to your house however it also enhances the beauty of one’s property.

3 Easy Care Flower bed ideas

[ad_left]

Flower Bed Ideas: Soil and Drainage Tips

Nothing caps off a beautiful yard like an exquisite flower bed, but don’t be tempted to jump in and try on flower bed ideas without considering the basics. Professional landscape architects always start with soil and drainage considerations in order to guarantee the best results when they bring their flower bed ideas to life. If you fail to take this step, you could end up with a swampy mess after the first rain or a barren mound of dirt where nothing will grow despite your best gardening efforts.

Flower bed ideas: soil considerations

When evaluating the soil conditions of a flower bed there are two major considerations to keep in mind: how porous the soil is, and the PH level.

When evaluating the porosity of soil the two most common types of soil you will run into are clay and sandy loam. Although there are many different variations based on combinations of these two soils, most often you will find that your flower bed soil will fall into one of these categories.

The best way to test what type of soil you have is to press together a handful of moist soil from your flower bed. If it sticks together and clumps, it has a high clay content which is not the most favorable environment to nurture a flower bed. If it breaks apart and crumbles this is a good sign and an indication that the clay content is low.

Clay soil is denser and doesn’t absorb water like sandy loam. As a result, if your soil has high clay content it is best not to leave sprinklers on as long when watering because the water will simply run off and not be absorbed. The best practice for watering a flower bed with a high clay content is to break up the watering into 2 equal segments which are each half as long. For example, if you were going to water for 20 minutes, break this up into two – 10 minute segments at different times of the day to maximize absorption into clay soil.

Sandy loam is a soil type that is most common in California. One of the ways you can tell if you have sandy loam is after a 15 minute rain you will see that the water has absorbed into the flower bed. On the other hand, if the clay content is high, you would have run off.

Next you will want to check the PH level of your flower bed. Get a good PH test kit from your local nursery or you can find a wide selection of PH test kits on Amazon.com.

If it turns out that the soil in your flower bed is acidic you have two choices: work with the soil, or neutralize it with gypsum. If you decide to work with the soil you will want to look for plants that like acidic PH such as, azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, and hydrangeas. See below for instructions on neutralizing with gypsum if you decide to go that route.

If you have highly alkaline soil your options are limited as to what will grow in your flower bed. Pine trees and mountainous trees will thrive in alkaline soil but most plants and flowers will not take in water or fertilizer in this environment. What you want to do is neutralize the soil with gypsum.

Neutralizing flowerbed soil with gypsum and other nutrients: the landscapers secret for a beautiful flower bed

Gypsum is a mineral that plays a variety of important roles in your garden soil. First, it can help to loosen up clay soils to help improve air and water penetration. Next it can aid in minimizing salt damage to plants. It can also promote root growth by repelling the small insects that feed on fragile plant roots and maximize the beneficial effects of fertilizer. You can click here for excellent organic garden gypsum to try.

You will also want to include mycorrhizal inoculums to your flower bed along with organic gypsum. The addition of these beneficial bacteria will make roots grow twice as long for healthier plants and longer lasting blooms. Here is an excellent mycorrhizal inoculums mixture to try.

One last way to loosen soil with a high clay content is to add organic matter to your soil. Of course plants need nutrients to grow, but what is not as well known is that for a long-lasting growth cycle and healthy flowers you will want to have two different types of fertilizer in your soil.

Steer manure is an excellent source of nutrients and it is picked up very quickly by the plants because it is already broken down by the digestive process of the steer. Unfortunately since it is already broken down, it will only last three to four months before it’s nutrient value is dissipated. For longer lasting nutrient value your fertilizer should include organic matter in addition to steer manure. Organic matter breaks down slower and will provide highly beneficial nutrients to your flowers for years.

[ad_right]

Flower bed ideas: drainage considerations

Most plants need good drainage to thrive and when you are planning your flower bed ideas, here are a few pointers to follow.

Start by noticing where your flower bed will be located. Will it be at the bottom of your property? Is your entire property at the bottom of a hill? If so, consider incorporating French drains into your flower bed ideas in order to channel excess water away from the flower bed. A French drain is simply a trench dug around the flower bed that can be filled to ground level with fragments of brick, or rocks. Ideally this drain will lead away from the house and away from the flower bed to keep water from pooling in either area.

Another rule of thumb that professional landscape architects employ is the 5% drainage rule. This rule simply implies that you should have a 5% grade leading away from the house and or flower bed to avoid pooling water. In general, you should never plant in standing water unless you are growing rice or swamp foliage. What this looks like in practice is for every 100 feet in distance, the level of the soil should fall by 5 feet. This will produce a 5% grade and provide adequate drainage for your flower bed.

So always remember to start any new flower bed project by reviewing the soil and drainage guidelines in this post. If you follow these guidelines you will ensure that your flower bed ideas turn out just as beautiful in real life as you had planned them on paper.

Bamboo Fountains and Spouts

[ad_left]

Bamboo Fountains and Spouts (kakei)

Bamboo Fountains and Spouts (kakei) are very common in Japanese gardens. They can be used wherever running water is wanted - over ponds, Japanese stone basins, or as part of a tsukubai or shishi odoshi.

Kakei bamboo spouts

Bamboo spouts are a perfect water feature for a rustic style Japanese garden, and they're small enough for even a tiny urban garden. You can use them over a Japanese stone basin, as part of a tsukubai or pouring into a pond. There's also a kind of bamboo fountain called a shishi odoshi, or deer scarer, which makes a rhythmic noise.

[ad_right]

Natural bamboo is beautiful, and distinctively Japanese. As with all Japanese garden ornaments, bamboo fountains will weather, and this is part of their charm. However, bamboo tends to split over time if water is running through it, so typically a plastic pipe is used inside the bamboo fountain or spout to protect the bamboo. You may also want to varnish or oil your bamboo fountain before use. Varnish will last longer, but has a harder finish.

Normally, all you need to power a bamboo fountain is a small garden pump – look on the box for the 'head height' – this is how high the pump can lift water, so this number needs to be bigger than the distance from your reservoir to the top of the bamboo spout. See how to make a Japanese water feature for more information about pumps and reservoirs.

Shishi odoshi

The shishi-odoshi or deer chaser is intended to scare off animals and birds, but it's mostly used as an ornament. Water pours from one bamboo spout into another, causing the second spout to tilt back and forth and making a rhythmic knocking sound. More about shishi odoshi.

Top 21 Different types of Cactus plants

[ad_left]

Cactus is a part of the cactaceae family and is the world's largest family of juicy plants species. There are around 2000 different types of Cactus plants species around the world and most of them are found in America. Cactus is very well suitable for desert weather conditions, using their stems to store water in the dry and harsh climatic conditions. All cactus varieties are not suitable for desert weather. Each cactus variety differs from one another in shape as well as in size. Some varieties grow tall, some are slim and many of them are dwarf. Some of them also bear flowers.

Cactus plays a very important role in the ecosystem. They provide food, and shelter to the countless forms of animals, reptiles and birds. Some of the desert tortoise snack on the neighboring cacti stems for food. Some of the most hostile weather conditions in the world where water is difficult to find, you may find cactus surviving. They store water in their leaves and stems. The skins are thick and most of them have thorns. Some varieties of cactus bloom at night and are pollinated by moths and bats. Animals like goats, mice and ants eat cactus fruits for survival.

Cactus family consists of more than 200 different types of Cactus plants or varieties. Some of the most popular types of Cactus plants are listed below:



[ad_center]

Types of Cactus

We've listed cactus in alphabetical order and included, families, specific cacti species as well as general categories:

Ariocarpus

Also known as desert cactus, are well suitable for desert conditions. Some of these species of plants have thick and dense thin skin. The thick skin leaves become flat and hides itself in the ground for the dry weather, while some have sharp ribs for shade. Some of these plants also have thorns resembling a thick brush. The roots of these species are radish shaped and are able to store ample water in them. The fruits are white or green in color with a lot of seeds in them.

Astrophytum asterias

These cactus species is also known as the mountain cactus. They grow on rocky surfaces; they have a unique ability to cling to any surfaces. They survive hot humid weather in the day and bear the freezing mountain cold conditions. The thick wool like cover on this species of cactus protects the plant from sunburns and cold. They are white or golden in color. You need to take good care of this cactus by keeping them sufficiently dry and cold in winter and also enough sunlight in summer. They are bloom within two years.

Echinocactus

Barrel Cactus is a type of cactus under the Echinocactus family of cactus. There are around six species of these cacti and the most famous is the golden barrel. They grow fast as compared to other cactus. They are found in desert regions of North America. It grows towards the sun like most cacti. After many years of full growth they bloom with yellow flowers and fruits which resemble a pineapple. Their roots are perfect to absorb water very efficiently. They are very popular due to its barrel shape.

Eriosyce Senilis

This species of the cactus family is found in abundance in Chile. They are short and spherical with stems resembling a spine of 30 to 40 cm tall. The color of the spine varies from dark green to purple. The color of the spines vary from plant to plant, some turn to grey in color with age while some spines are short and thin. These cactus species bear flowers which are pink in color. It is a good summer plant needing sufficient air. They have good tolerance to heat and hence there is no need to water them regularly in summer months.

Cholla Cactus

Cholla Cactus is a word that represent Opuntia genus of the Cactacea family, which has more than 20 species. These species are shrubby in nature, and have segment-jointed cylindrical stems, which are useful for photosynthesis, water storage and production of flowers. The chollas have a distinctive appearance, thanks to the sheath on the spines, which is brightly colored.

Columnar Cactus

There is a vast array of cacti. These succulents can come in varied shapes and sizes - among which are tall, slender cacti called columnar cactus. Albeit the rarity of being under cultivation, columnar cacti is one of the most favorite picks of cactus enthusiasts for their grandiose sizes and artful upright branches. A typical cactus of this kind can stand 15 feet tall with each branch measuring up to 6 inches in diameter.

Coryphyanta

This is a savanna variety usually found in open grasslands, and under small trees. The savanna climate is most suitable for these species. They have the ability to bear cool and dry winters, while needing sufficient water and sunlight during the summer months. Beware of water stagnation near their roots; they need proper water drainage facilities. The stems are 5cms in diameter and roots are short tap roots. They flower early but need almost 10 years to attain full growth.

Epiphyllum Cactus

The Epiphyllum family of cacti are cacti prized for their spectacularly beautiful flowers, which give them the name orchid cacti. These blossoms can be large and come in colors of white, lemon yellow, lavender, pink or red. They're epiphytes, which means they grow in the wild on trees or other structures and their bare roots get their nutrients and water from the rain and air. A gardener who wants to grow epiphyllum cacti can buy them either rooted or unrooted. Cacti that are unrooted are less expensive to buy. However, the gardener will have to wait for flowers, as it can take an epiphyllum cacti up to four years to bloom. Many of these cacti bloom at night, and can also be propagated by cuttings from mature plants.

Ferocactus horridus

This species of cactus are found in Mexico. They are primarily of garden variety and grow on hill sides with sufficient water and sunlight for it to grow. These species of cactus are short and stocky. The stem is elongated and very dark green in color growing from 40 to 100 cm tall. The seeds are dark black and shining. They also bear fruits and flowers. The flowers are yellow or orange in color with lemon yellow fruits.

If you are looking for an indoor cactus or just looking to add color to your home or garden, there are a number of flowering cacti that are perfect for the job.

Gymnocalycium Bruchii

This variety is originated from Argentina and found in wide range of environments. They are slow growing plants forming clusters of 15 cms. When small they are succulent clusters with flat stems growing up to 6cm long. The spines are white and curved sometimes also straight. The funnel shaped flowers are lavender white in color bearing green fruits. This cactus species are cold tolerant preferring low PH, otherwise the growth will be affected. These plants can tolerate bright sunny weather also, but need shade during peak summer months. You need to water them in summer and keep them dry during winter months.

Hedgehog Cactus

Another commonly recognized type of cactus is the Hedgehog Cactus. These short stubby, and bristly cactus have beautiful red and sometimes pink flowers.

Hylocereinae

They are also referred to as forest saguaros, are a type of cactus which changes its texture according to the climatic conditions. They have thin and supple creepy stalks and roots on them which deliver moisture from air. They grow on the outer part of the forest area where there is light and air. In case of dry weather conditions their stalks wrinkle, but turn green and juicy as soon as it gets rain. They are designed to protect themselves from extreme heat and water evaporation.

Nopal Cactus

The Nopal Cactus has become increasingly popular over the years seeing as how it can be grown for a number of purposes, whether one is looking to cultivate food or simply use it as a decoration. In addition, the Nopal cactus can also be used to create fodder for a farmer's livestock as well as clothing fibers. Even though it is possible to plant a Nopal cactus using seeds, most people prefer to use cuttings as it propagates much more easily. Luckily, contrary to some cacti the Nopal is relatively easy to grow, and what's more, it requires very little input from you once it has been planted.

Opuntia basilaris

They grow in very dry plains in rocky soils. The stem is oval and round in shape with purplish pigmentation. They are generally without spine with rare occurrence on the rim of the leaf pad. The color of the flower varies from rose to magenta. This plant is very prone to rotting; hence need very little water once it has grown to its full size. They need maximum sunlight and avoid shadow.

Orchid Cactus

The orchid cactus has a beautiful appearance in full bloom, but getting it to that stage requires a fair deal of knowledge and knowing how to care for it is important. We all know that a cactus is not a plant that needs a huge amount of maintenance since this is something that is found in dry, arid areas. However, in saying that, you also have to be aware that you are now taking the plant out of its natural environment and if you want to grow it indoors then you will have to feed it and care for it so that it grows to the same rate. You can also grow it outdoors, but it is slightly more tricky.

Pincushion Cactus

Pincushion cactus appear like balls that have fine needles. This cactus is very decorative because of its bright colored flowers, shape and even its spines. Pincushion cacti are also called Fishhook and they belong to the group of Barrel cacti. Perhaps they are the most common kind of cactus grown inside houses. They are pretty easy to take care for, that is why they are popular among countless homeowners. If you want to grow one for your own, we provided a simple and useful guideline that you can follow.

Pencil Cactus

The pencil cactus is part of the Euphorbia Tirucalli family. It has a milky white stem, which can be an irritant so you should be careful of direct contact with this on your skin. It is also known as the Milkbush, due to that fact. These cacti are grown in hot areas and they grow with ease.

Prickly Pear Cactus

Most of us tend to think of cacti in terms of the tall Saguaro cacti that you see in westerns, while these are indeed one of the largest species of cactus in the world, they are not the only ones and they are a protected species. If you are looking for one that you can plant in your garden and will grow in almost any climate, you should consider the Prickly Pear Cactus. This particular cactus is easily recognized by it flat stems that are oval in shape that are often crowned with fruits that are called tuna and are reddish colored.

Rebutia albipilosa

This type of cactus is found in Argentina. This cactus type has dense and long white bristles with several offsets. The stem is fat and grows 4 to 6 cm tall. They are very easy to farm but require care while watering to keep the plant compact with its spines. They need to be sheltered and should not be watered too much as there is a fear of rotting. Keep them dry during the winter months.



[ad_center]

Saguaro Cactus

The Saguaro cactus is native to the Sonoran desert is the best known cacti species. It is a slow growing plant that only takes about 35 years to flower and 75 years to develop an arm. The plant also lives long reaching up to 200 years. In the right growing conditions the plant can grow up to a height of 50ft. The plant has tall and thick stem and branches, when the plant grows to maturity the stem can achieve a width of 24inches in diameter and will have an average of five arms. Its slow growing property makes it a great indoor as well as outdoor plant. If you are interested in growing your own Saguaro cactus here are tips to help you get started.

Star Cactus

The star cactus is a flowering cactus that has the reputation of being difficult. That's because its flowers bloom only during March to May. There is no guarantee that you can bloom it out of season. Nevertheless, you can try by using the tips that we provided below. But before we proceed, it is important to note that by now, there are very few Star Cacti in the wild. If you are fond of the plant, you certainly have more than enough reasons to grow them.

Cactus growing has found interest among people around the world. More and more cactus varieties are being discovered by scientists, though some species are getting endangered.

Guidelines For Growing Cacti And Succulent Plants Indoors

[ad_left]

All cacti are succulent plants, but not all succulents are cactus. Cacti are one of the most popular indoor plants of the succulent family. Many are native to the desert regions of the southern US and Mexico, where rainfall is usually low and there are extremes in temperature. On the other hand, some of the most floriferous cacti come to us from the warm and humid rain forests of South and Central America. Cacti are distinguished from other succulents by cushion-like growths on their stems called areoles from which the spines, hairs, flowers, and shoots develop.

The distinguishing feature of succulent plants is the presence of water-storing, fleshy tissue in their stems, leaves, or roots. It is this tissue that allows cacti and other succulents to withstand long periods of drought. Succulents are often divided into three groups depending on which part of the plant contains the moisture retaining tissue: stem succulents, leafy succulents, and caudiciform succulents. Most cacti fall into the stem succulent group.

Cacti and other succulents display a wide variety of size, shape, texture, color. Some have curved or straight spines, some have silky hair, while others have plump smooth surfaces and their shapes can range from squat or globular, to candelabra. Some bloom for relatively brief periods and bear large brightly colored flowers, while others flower for longer periods and produce many blooms. In cooler temperatures most succulents are either house plants grown in various types of containers or are grown in greenhouses.

Growing Cacti and succulents indoors: (greenhouse and home):

Most cacti and succulent plants used for outdoor cultivation in warm climates will thrive in an environmentally regulated greenhouse where light, humidity, temperature, and water are controlled. These plants are also very well suited for the warm and dry conditions of a heated home where some other plants will fail. Most cacti and other succulents require high levels of light and good ventilation although some of the more leafy plants may need protection from direct sunlight to avoid leaf scorching. It should be noted that one important group of succulent plants, the epiphytic group, requires a more shaded location in the house. These are among the most floriferous of cacti and include some of the most popular cacti: the Christmas Cactus, the Thanksgiving cactus, and the Easter cactus.

Growing Cacti And Succulent Plants Indoors can be grown in containers or in open beds in a greenhouse. Larger species can be grown in open beds either at floor level or in raised benches. Cacti and succulent plants from warm habitats require bright light and a fairly dry atmosphere to develop fully. Temperature in the greenhouse should be held close to 64 degrees F. There are some species that require higher than normal levels of humidity usually found in a greenhouse environment. These may do better in a conservatory setting with more humid conditions. If the humidity is too high it may cause brown irregular shaped spots to appear on the plant.

[ad_right]

Many cacti and succulent plants are very well adapted to living in houses in draft-free warm conditions where the relative humidity is less than 30 percent. They require only modest amounts of water and fertilizer and should be placed in a bright, sunny window. If not enough time can be spent in natural light, artificial lighting, either by white fluorescent tubes, or a combination of daylight and natural white fluorescent tubes, will give good results. The plants may require up to 15 hours of artificial light per day during the shorter days of fall and winter.

Cacti and other succulent plants do not do particularity well in ordinary garden soil. In their natural habitat most cacti and succulents grow in well-drained sandy soil and these conditions should be duplicated indoors. A good garden soil that has a pH level between 6 and 6.5 can be used as the basis of a home made soil mix. Both pot and growing medium should be sterile first to kill pests and weed seeds and to eliminate diseases. To 2 parts of sterile soil add one part peat, one part clean sharp sand, and a little slow-release fertilizer. Most commercial succulent mixes can be used right out of the bag. Ideally, these plants can be grown in pots with many drainage holes as excess water in the soil will cause rotting and will decay soon.

While Growing Cacti And Succulent Plants Indoors Water, cacti and succulent plants only enough to prevent shrinking and withering during the fall and winter months of shorter daylight hours. When watering, thoroughly water the plants to a point where the water flows out through the drain holes. Discard any excess water and always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. Remember that as daylight hours increase as springtime approaches, the plant's need for water decreases.

While Growing Cacti And Succulent Plants Indoors, Cacti and succulent plants do not require feeding during their dormant seasons. During the growing season in late spring and summer, feed them once or twice to help maintain healthy, vigorous growth and to encourage flowering. Liquid commercial fertilizers are available and are satisfactory if manufacturer’s directions are followed. Other house plant fertilizers higher in phosphorus than nitrogen and diluted to half the recommended rate can also be used. Some other succulents may be fertilized three or four times during their growing season.

Indoor Gardener Pros and Cons

[ad_left]
There are many advantages to bringing live plants into your home or indoor gardener. For one, you can expect better air quality, but I must ask you to be careful when choosing your plants, as I will explain in the Cons section of this article.

Being an Indoor Gardener also offers aesthetic value to your home making it more attractive and lively. Especially during the winter months when the view outside is dreary and colorless. Indoor plants also allow serious gardeners an opportunity to enjoy their hobby thus giving them continued relaxation and pleasure throughout the year.

Indoor Plants are a source for interior design flare with the varied types of plants, flowers, herbs and trees as well as fountains, terrariums and a wide selection of planters from which to choose. Even some of your outdoor plants currently in your garden may actually be brought indoors, but need a period of adjustment first to keep them healthy and happy.

There is a proven psychological factor to consider. Studies show that indoor plants may have a significant contribution to your physical well-being by reducing stress, lowering blood pressure, cleaning the air to promote good health and even better productivity in your home workplace.

However, there are a few major considerations to bring to mind when contemplating as an indoor gardener. The first being the many poisonous varieties of plants and flowers that could have a devastating affect on young children and pets if they should ingest the leaves, bark, roots and even coming in contact with the skin.

There are also surprisingly gruesome aspects to the plant world, like the carnivorous ones that can also be helpful in ridding the house of pests like flies. There are wide varieties of exotic plants that can be both beautiful and dangerous.

[ad_right]

Lastly, I want to point out for those of us who have existing health issues that living plants must be properly maintained in order to eliminate the possibility of mold or insect problems within the home.

Like all living things, there is a natural balance in the world, and everything has both pros and cons. Plants are not exempt and most are as susceptible to some problem or another, be it insects, high humidity, mold or danger to our young children or pets.

One must use care in choosing the right plant for your home by doing the proper research in advance of any purchases but the rewards far outweigh the disadvantages.

 

Adding Interest to Your Garden Indoors

[ad_left]

Fountains - Garden Indoors

For starters, there’s a lot to be said about adding a fountain to your plant’s settings or Garden Indoors. There are so many inexpensive tabletop fountains that can be purchased from catalogues and department stores that can add not only sight and sound but will have a positive effect on you and your Garden Indoors plants as well.

The sound of splashing water is soothing and helps the mind relax and clear itself of the daily clatter that we build up within ourselves. It eases the tension in our muscles and let’s us rest better.

It also adds humidity to the room and surrounds your Indoor Garden with much needed moisture, especially during the long winter months ahead. That humidity is also good for your health as the dry air from heating our homes robs the tender mucus membranes of the necessary moisture they need to keep you healthy.

The dryness can and will cause more problems with breathing and actually enables those cold bugs to take root much easier and stay longer in a dry parched throat and nose. Consider adding a fountain to each room where you have your Indoor Gardens and you and your house plants will be so much happier and healthier for it.

Fountains, silk butterflies, and feathered bird accents are fun items to add to your Garden Indoors or house plant placements that will be conversation pieces and add a touch of fancy to your Indoor Garden.

I put lights on my Ficus tree at Christmas time and keep small brightly colored birds perched on its’ branches throughout the time I have to keep it indoors. I take them off during the summer months when I take all my house plants except my African Violets and Christmas cactus out of doors to enjoy the sunshine and rain that they crave.

[ad_right]

Garden Indoors

Consider these additions to your Garden Indoors. You can change them for each of the upcoming Holidays throughout the long winter months ahead. Most craft stores carry the bird and butterfly accents and if you are very crafty you might even make them yourself.

Pretty pots and unusual planters are not necessarily the only decorative accents you can add to your Indoor Garden. Be creative and have fun.

Japanese Garden Ornaments

[ad_left]

Japanese garden ornaments are the quickest way to give your garden a Japanese touch. A stone lantern or basin instantly makes you think of Japanese gardens. Different ornaments suit different types of Japanese garden - small or large, formal or rustic.

Japanese Garden Ornaments

Japanese garden ornaments tend to be built out of natural materials like stone and bamboo – metal is not so common. They're also intended to weather, changing colour, gathering moss. When placing your Japanese garden ornaments, think about where they would naturally be needed. For example, a stone lantern feels more natural if you place it somewhere where light would be useful, such as besides a path.

If you combine your Japanese Garden Ornaments with other Japanese elements, it will be much more effective and feel much more natural.

Stone lanterns

Probably the best known kind of Japanese garden ornament, stone lanterns come in a range of styles and sizes, from large, ornate, formal temple lanterns to cute little okidora to rustic lanterns made of natural boulders. They can be lit, but don't need to be. These days a range of stone lanterns can be easily found outside Japan.

Stone towers and pagodas

This is probably the most dramatic and formal of Japanese garden ornaments. They won't sit so well in a rustic style Japanese garden. Japanese stone towers were originally spiritual pieces, but these days are often used purely decoratively. Japanese stone towers are usually square, but sometimes hexagonal or octagonal. They always have an odd number of levels. Five levels is plenty for a small garden. Stone towers work well by ponds and streams, as the strong vertical alignment contrasts well with the horizontal alignment of the water. They also make lovely reflections in a still pond.

Stone buddhas

These do work well in a less formal setting, if they're not too big. I find it's lovely to come across a small stone buddha somewhere off the beaten track – following a winding path through trees and bushes, for example – half-hidden by grasses or bushes. You can also get bigger ones, which feel more formal.

Signposts

In a real Japanese garden, these direct the visitor. In a western Japanese-inspired garden, the chances of anyone being able to read the kanji are rare, but they still make nice ornaments. As with other Japanese garden ornaments, place them somewhere that makes sense – at a junction or a turn in the path. The more weathered and moss-covered the better. Japanese garden ornaments are always at their most lovely when it looks like they've been in place for years and years. Japanese signposts are usually a single column, read downwards, and can be made of wood or stone.

[ad_right]

Stone basins

Japanese stone basins come in a range of styles. Some are so simple that they will blend in well in any garden. They can be used on their own, or as part of a tsukubai.

Rain chains

Rain chains are both beautiful and practical. One of the few metal Japanese garden ornaments, they are Japan's answer to drain pipes, and much more attractive.

Bamboo spouts

Aside from larger elements like streams and ponds, bamboo spouts are the usual Japanese water feature. They are used in tsukubai, shishi odoshi, or on their own.

Japanese Stone Basins

[ad_left]

Japanese Stone Basins (chozubachi)

Stone basins are one of the most common features of a Japanese garden, found in even the tiniest urban spaces. They're also often found at the entrance to a teahouse, for the guests to wash their hands.

Japanese Stone Basins - Water

Japanese stone water basins (chozubachi) make a beautiful addition to any garden, and even the tiniest space can fit one. Stone basins only grow more beautiful over time as the stone gradually becomes weathered. If you place them somewhere cool and damp they will also collect a lovely layer of moss.

Japanese Stone Basins were originally used at temples for ritual purification. This then became part of the tea ceremony preparations, and soon stone basins were popular in all kinds of Japanese garden.

The best material for Japanese Stone Basins is granite, which is very tough and weathers well.

Like all elements of Japanese gardening, Japanese Stone Basins come in formal, informal and rustic styles. Here are a few different kinds of Japanese stone basin.

Tetsubachi stone basin

This is a favourite kind of Japanese Stone Basins, and the kind used in the tsukubai in any garden. It has a lovely round shape, wider at the top than the bottom.

Natsume-bachi stone basin

This is another round basin, but a tall one, taller than it is wide.

[ad_right]

Mountain stone basins

Some tsukubai aren't shaped, but rather are made from natural stones or boulders, with a little hole carved in the top to form the basin. These are some of the most beautiful tsukubai, in my opinion. They're perfect for a rustic style garden. Being made from natural stones, they come in all shapes and sizes.

Zenigata misubachi

This is a Japanese Stone Basin which is shaped like a coin – round, with a square hole, and japanese kanji on it.

Kiku-bachi stone basin

Kiku means crysanthemum, and that's the shape of this tsukubai.

Stone dish

This is just what it sounds like – a round, flat dish, rather than a basin.

Design Japanese Garden

[ad_left]

Here are some basic principles of Japanese garden design to bear in mind when creating your garden.

Kyoto garden

Nature comes first

The Japanese garden is all about nature. You're trying to Design Japanese Garden to create a perfect piece of nature in miniature. So lines are curving and organic; stone and wood is left to weather; objects are placed in odd numbers. Also, everything in your garden should be appropriate for the location. So the stones you use should ideally be of a type that's found locally; ditto for your plants.

Simplicity

Less is more. Japanese gardens are never fussy. This is especially true in rustic style gardens, where simplicity is revered.

Balance

There should be a harmonious balance in all things: between vertical lines and horizontal; soft and hard; wet and dry; objects and space; high, mid and low level elements. There should also be a balance in terms of size: if your garden is small, the elements within it must be small; if it's large, you should use larger rocks and ornaments. Everything in balance.

Asymmetry

You don't find symmetry in natural landscapes, so we don't use it Japanese gardens.

[ad_right]

Emptiness

Empty space is a feature in and of itself. If there are too many elements in your garden, it's definitely not going to feel Japanese. You need the proper balance between space and stuff.

Seasonality

Design Japanese Garden and enjoy all year round. Spring and summer are easy; but in autumn you can enjoy the falling leaves, and in winter, if you've planned the shape and structure of your garden carefully, it will look truly magnificent under its layer of snow.

Meigakure

Meigakure means that you never see the whole garden at once. The different areas of the garden are partly concealed. This creates a feeling of space, nature, and mystery.

[ad_left]

Here are the basic Japanese Garden Elements:
Stone

The heart of a Japanese garden is not plants, but stone. When creating your Japanese garden, the first thing to do is choose and place your stones. Then plan the planting around them.

Stones should always be placed in odd groupings, and there should be balance between types of stone (vertical, horizontal, leaning, etc).

Water

Water's always present in a Japanese garden – if not literally (streams, pools, water features) then metaphorically (dry gardens – stone and gravel gardens – have areas which represent the sea, a pond, or a stream).

[ad_right]

Plants

The stones are the permanent bones of the garden. The plants are the part that changes with the seasons. In a Japanese garden, the plants should be ideally be local species. Make sure to choose high, low, and mid-level plants, a mixture of textures, and plants which will be interesting in different seasons.

Japanese Garden Ornaments

A stone lantern or basin is a quick way to make your garden feel Japanese. Like everything else, they should fit the feel of the garden.

Japanese Garden Fence

[ad_left]

Japanese Garden Fence is a more complicated subject than I can ever hope to understand. It's a real art form, with over a hundred different styles of fence, many truly ancient in design. Even the knots are a work of art. But here's an overview.

Japanese Garden Fence

As always, there are formal, semi-formal, and informal types of Japanese Garden Fence. Some fences will be suggestive of a rustic setting, others are more appropriate to a temple setting.

Texture is important in the Japanese Garden Fence. For example, you might choose a fence to contrast in texture with the plants around it, and vice versa.

Japanese fence knot Traditional fences can be very expensive, and so can bamboo for making fences. If your budget won't stretch to the real thing, reed or twig sheeting can now be bought pretty inexpensively at garden centres, and so you can create a fence with the feel of a certain kind of Japanese fence by stapling or wiring that kind of sheeting to your existing garden boundary.

Types of Japanese Garden Fence

At the broadest level, there are two kinds of Japanese Garden Fence. Oo-gaki is continuous fencing – what we think of as fencing, ie it forms a long boundary. Sode-gaki, on the other hand, are screen fences: a single panel of fencing, used to screen off an area of the garden. They're often used at the end of a verandah, or beside a tsukubai. They're usually about 3 or 4 feet wide, and about 6 foot high. They come in a huge range of styles, each with its own name. Some are rectangular, many have a curve at the top corner which is away from the wall.

Types of Oogaki Japanese Garden Fence

Here are a few types of oogaki:

Kenninji japanese fenceKenninji fence

A formal fence, named after a famous temple in Kyoto. It's made of quartered bamboo placed vertically very close together, and is held together with horizonal bamboo bars and hemp rope.

Teppo gaki

Another formal fence. Teppo ('tube' or 'musket') fences are made from whole bamboo pipes. Unlike Kenninji fences, there are small gaps between the bamboo. The pipes are also offset in two rows, so for example you might have three pipes at the front and three behind, repeating.

Taimatsu gaki

Taimatsu (torch) fences are semi-formal, and made from bundles of twiggy branches tied together vertically.

YotsumegakiYotsume gaki

Yotsume (four-eyes) fences are informal, and made from narrow pieces of bamboo tied together in a loose square lattice. They tend to be short, and you can see right through them. Here's an article which shows the construction of a yotsume fence – it's one of the easier ones to try at home.

Yarai gaki

Yarai (stockade) fencing is informal. It's a bit like yotsume turned through 45 degrees – it's another lattice, but with diamonds instead of squares. It doesn't have a horizontal pole across the top – the ends of the bamboo stick out a little way, looking like the stockade fence it's named for.

[ad_right]

Types of Sodegaki

Here are a few types of sodegaki:

Like the teppo-gaki described above, these are made with large whole bamboo pipes.

Chasengaki

'Tea whisk fence' – like taimatsu gaki, these are made from bundles of branches, arranged vertically.

Japanese Koi Pond

A Japanese koi pond is a beautiful thing which will give you hours of peaceful pleasure.
[ad_left]

Japanese Koi Pond

Koi fish ponds are a classic Japanese garden feature. The pond in a Japanese hill and pond garden is often a koi pond. Koi have a special place in the Japanese heart, as the word 'koi' sounds like another word that means 'affection or love', so koi are symbols of love and friendship to the Japanese.

Japanese koi ponds are wonderfully tranquil, and this fits perfectly with the general mood of Japanese gardens. And not only are koi very beautiful (often called 'living jewels'), but their peaceful movements help reduce stress.

The exception to those tranquil movements is feeding time – koi are a lot of fun to feed because they really go crazy over food! Kids especially love feeding koi, so if you have it's a nice idea to create a special feeding place for your Japanese koi pond where the water is shallower, so that kids can feed the koi safely.

Koi are a kind of carp, and the Japanese word koi actually just means carp. The Japanese word for the colourful fish that we call koi is actually nishiki-goi. There are many varieties of koi and they come in a range of colours: classically, orange, yellow and white, but also black, grey, and blue.



[ad_center]

Koi live a long time – about thirty years on average, though with good care they can live much longer – 230 years is the oldest on record. A Japanese koi pond is a long-term investment!

You can apply the same design principles to your Japanese koi pond as to the rest of your garden. Here are some ideas for Japanese Koi Pond design.

Japanese Stone Lanterns

[ad_left]

Nothing says Japanese garden like Japanese Stone Lanterns! Japanese Stone Lanterns are an easy way to give a Japanese touch to your garden, and if you combine it with other Japanese garden elements, it will be even more effective.

Japanese Stone Lanterns

For a natural Japanese feel, it's best to place your stone lantern somewhere where light would theoretically be needed – beside a path, near a porch, or with a Japanese stone basin arrangement (tsukubai).

It's good to bear in mind the feel of your garden as a whole, too – if your garden is informal and natural then a rustic or simple stone lantern would blend well, if you garden is formal then a more elaborate style might go better.

Granite or hard sandstone are the best materials for a Japanese lantern; they're durable and weather nicely. Because they're made of stone, Japanese garden lanterns are very heavy, so they're usually made in separate pieces for easier transportation and set-up.

There are hundreds of different kinds of japanese stone lantern, but there are three basic types:

1. Tachi-gata. These lanterns sit on a base, and are fairly formal.
2. Ikekomi-gata. These lanterns have their pedestals (sao) buried right in the ground, and are less formal.
3. Okidora. These are small lanterns which are easily moved. The have no pedestal, but are placed on a stone or straight on the ground.

Here are some specific styles of Japanese Stone Lanterns:

Yukimi-gata

This is my favourite kind of Japanese stone lantern. Yukimi means 'snow viewing'; viewing natural things is a big part of traditional Japanese culture, whether it's snow, cherry blossoms or the moon! Yukimi lanterns have wide tops, perfect for snow to settle on, and so look especially beautiful in the winter. They can be round in shape, or hexagonal like a pagoda, but they always have a wide, curving top. They have little legs rather than a solid base, and are often placed near water.

[ad_right]

Misaki-gata

The misaki-gata is a cute little stone lantern without a pedestal – an okidora. It's often placed on a 'spit of land' – a low-lying bit of land sticking out into a lake.

Kasuga lanterns

Kasuga lanterns are tachi-gata, or pedestal lanterns – they sit on a stone base. They're often used as focal points at intersections and can be very fancy.

Miyoshi lanterns

These are ikekomi-gata, or buried lanterns – they're planted right in the ground. They're great planted along paths or at gates.

Kotoji lanterns

Kotoji means 'harp tuner', and kotoji have two long legs which look like tuning forks. Usually one leg is placed on land and the other on water to emphasise the difference. A very dramatic style.

Oribe lanterns

This is a style of ikekomi lantern designed by Lord Furuta Oribe, who was a famous tea master in the 16th century. Oribe lanterns are square in shape and are planted straight into the ground. Sometimes their front and back openings are covered with shoji (paper screens), and the right and left openings are a crescent moon and full moon.

Yamadoro

Yamadoro is a very informal type of lantern. Instead of being carved, yamadoro lanterns are made of natural stones, collected and put together to form a lantern shape. This is the most rustic style.

Sangatsu-do lanterns

Sangatsu-do lanterns are temple entrance lanterns, and are also used at the entrance to teahouses. They're pedestal lanterns.

Rankei lanterns

Rankei lanterns are placed beside water. They have a base stone and a long, curved stone pedestal so that the actual stone lantern hangs out over the water, creating a beautiful reflection.

Japanese Garden Styles

[ad_left]

Japanese gardens aren't all the same - they come in different styles. There are four basic types of garden, and three levels of formality. In a big Japanese garden, you'll see several different garden types and styles.

Japanese Garden Styles - Types of Japanese garden

Sand and stone garden (karesansui)

This is probably the best known kind of Japanese garden, and one of the ones that people are most likely to think of when someone says 'Japanese garden'. A sand and stone garden is made up of a few key stones carefully place, and raked sand or gravel around them.

Karesansui means 'dry landscape', and the arrangement of sand and stones is intended to represent a landscape in miniature. The raked gravel usually represents water – a sea, pond, or river, with the stones and/or moss-covered mounds representing islands.

The value that Japanese gardeners place on empty space can especially be seen in sand and stone gardens. This makes them especially peaceful and suitable for contemplation or meditation, and in the west they are often called 'Zen gardens', though their proper name is karesansui. In Japan, sand and stone gardens are often found in temple and monastery gardens.

Hill and pond strolling gardens (chisen-kaiyu-skiki)

Hill and pond strolling gardenIn the Heian period, hill and pond gardens were designed to be seen from a boat on the pond, but from the Edo period, they became gardens which were intended to be walked around. So a hill and pond strolling garden is designed to be seen from many different perspectives, as one walks around it. The path and the views are carefully planned out together. Sometimes these gardens are created to represent a particular landscape – a favourite region, or the land of ones birth.

Flat garden (hira-niwa)

Flat courtyard gardenFlat gardens are a development of sand and stone gardens. They're found in front of pavillions and temples, and are often laid out to be seen from the verandah of the building. They usually have an area of sand and stone, laid out as if it were a lake or sea, with a 'shore' or slightly raised earth around it, with trees and other plants. Shrubs may be clipped to suggest hills or mountains.

Tea gardens (cha-niwa or roji-niwa)

The tea ceremony is all about being completely present in the moment: appreciating the tea, the bowl, the guests. Tea gardens are designed to help guests step into the right state of mind, with tranquility and simplicity.

Tea Tea gardens are always rustic (as opposed to formal). The guest enters through a gate, where he steps from the busy everyday world into the quiet world of the tea garden. He follows a winding path (roji) through the garden to a waiting place (machiai) – a small building or bench – where he waits for his host and contemplates his surroundings. He is then taken into the inner garden, and past a tsukubai (stone basin arrangement) where he washes his hands to purify himself before stepping into the teahouse itself.

This path, the roji (the outer path is soto-roji and the inner path is uchi-roji), and the mental journey it represents is so central to the experience of the tea ceremony that tea gardens are often refered to as roji-niwa – 'path gardens', as well as cha-niwa – 'tea gardens'.

[ad_right]

Japanese Garden Styles

As well as the types of garden I just described, 'Japanese garden styles' could also refer to the degree of formality of the garden. There are three levels of formality:

 

Shin – formal
Gyo – medium formality
So – informal / rustic
The level of formality that you choose affects every decision, as there are formal and rustic styles of ornament, building, path, etc. A temple or palace garden will almost be mostly formal, and tea gardens are always rustic.

Japanese Garden Waterfall

[ad_left]

Water is one of the key elements of Japanese gardening. There are many kinds of Japanese water feature, from simple stone basins to majestic waterfalls like Japanese Garden Waterfall.

Water is an essential feature in any Japanese garden. Even dry Japanese gardens feature stylised water represented by gravel, and other kinds of Japanese garden always have some kind of water feature. From a simple stone basins and bamboo spouts, to ponds, streams and Japanese Garden Waterfall, the range of options shows how important water features are to the Japanese.

Water features are simultaneously refreshing and relaxing, and offer beauty in sound as well as sight. In Japanese gardens, water is usually in motion. When it's relatively still, it's often used to create beautiful reflections, for example by aligning a pond so it will reflect the full moon. Japanese water features are always inspired by nature, such as streams and waterfalls, or by practical needs, such as water basins and rain chains, and sometimes both.

Making a Japanese water feature needn't be difficult or expensive. See my step by step instructions for how to make a Japanese water feature, which describes the method I used for the tsukubai in my garden.

There are many kinds of Japanese water feature, so you can find something to suit any sized garden or budget. Here are a few examples.

Stone basins and tsukubai.

Stone water basins are the perfect Japanese water feature for a tiny garden. You can place it on its own, or in the traditional arrangement known as a tsukubai.

Rain chains

Rain chains are the Japanese answer to drainpipes, and a lot more attractive. Beautiful and practical.

Bamboo spout and zenigataBamboo fountains and spouts (kakei).

Bamboo spouts are very common in Japanese gardens, and are especially perfect for a rustic style gardens. You'll find them pouring water into a Japanese stone basin, or pouring into a pond.

Shishi odoshi (deer scarer)

A very rustic water feature; a bamboo pipe which collects and then releases water, making a rhythmic knocking sound as it goes.

Ponds

In a Japanese garden, a pond can be simply a pond, or it can represent a shore line.

[ad_right]

Japanese Garden Waterfall

In a Japanese garden, a stream can represent the course of life itself. This water feature works best if you model it very closely on nature – for example, the steeper the slope, the faster the water runs, and the deeper it cuts.

If the larger waterworks required building this kind of water feature are more than you want to take on, you could consider making a symbolic stream out of flat rocks or gravel.

Peace Lily Plant Care

[ad_left]

Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum, Sail Plant)

This lily produces flowers from May to August. The flowers last about six weeks. As the flowers age, they turn from white to pale green. Its glossy green leaves lean out as sails from the center of the lily, hence the name Sail Plant.

Spathiphyllum is a rhizone. Given the correct treatment and conditions, it can double its size in one growing season. It would live for 10 years or more if treated well. Try it!

Peace Lily Plant Care (Spathiphyllum, Sail Plant)Requirements
Light:

Keep your lily in semi shade in summer and bright light in winter. Always keep the lily out of direct sunlight. Strong direct sunlight will damage the leaves.

Temperature and Humidity:

Keep your lily in warm to average-warm room. It requires minimum temperature in winter - 55 degrees F (14 degrees C) It needs high humidity - mist the leaves frequently. Stand pot on marbles or pebbles in a tray with water.

Soil:

Grow the peace lily in a peat-based potting mix.

Water:

Keep soil mix moist at all times. Water the lily less frequently in winter.

Fertilizer:

Use a water soluble fertilizer once per month. Reduce fertilizing the peace lily in winter. It's out of the growing season.

Pest and Diseases:

The Peace Lily is susceptible to being attacked by red spider mite and greenfly.

[ad_right]

To treat wash the leaves with likewarm soapy water containing nicotine. To extract the nicotine crush pieces of tobacco in water. Let the preparation rest for a few hours then pour through a sieve into a container. Mix your nicotine liquid with warm soapy water.
If the infestation is severe, use Safer insecticide from Bonsai Boy.
Yellow leaves indicate that the plant is exposed to too much sunlight. Remove the yellow leaves and place the lily in a more shaded area.

Floppy leaves indicate too little watering. Immerse the pot in a pail of water and thoroughly soak the plant, then drain it very well. Do not allow the rootball to get soggy.

Propagation:

For best growth and flowering, divide the peace lily and repot in early spring every year.

 

 

Philodendrons Plant Care

[ad_left]

Philodendrons Plant Care Requirements

Philodendrons are climbers and trailers and some are erect green tropical plants with thick stems. Their leaves are heart-shaped, sword-shaped, fiddle-shaped or triangular and maybe green or red.

The young leaves of the Burgundy species are bright red and turn green when they mature, while the underside of the leaves are burgundy. The Red Leaf Philodendron has dark green, shiny triangular leaves with coppery undersides. Their stems and leafstalks are red. Thr climbers need a support; such as, a piece of tree bark on which to grow.

Philodendrons Plant Care Requirements
Light

Philodendrons require bright light. Inadequate lighting causes small leaves and straggly growth.

Temperature and Humidity

They require warm temperature and medium humidity.

Soil

Grow your philodendrons in an all-purpose soil mix.

Water

Water thoroughly but allow the soil to dry before the next watering.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer

Fertilize your philodendrons twice per month from early spring to late summer.

Pests and Diseases

Philodendrons are susceptible to being attacked by aphids, mealybugs, scale and spider mites. Wash the leaves with lukewarm soapy water. If infestation is severe, spray with Malathion or Rotenone. Overwatering philodendrons causes root-rot to occur plus salt build-up and brown spots to form on the leaves.

Propagation

Propagate philodendrons by placing cuttings in water, by layering or by sowing seeds in vermiculite. Apply water soluble fertilizer in the water or vermiculite once per month.

Piggyback Plant Care

[ad_left]

Piggyback Plant (Tolmiea Menziesii)

The Piggyback plant is native to Western Canada and the United States. It got its common name from the manner in which it reproduces. The young plants are formed at the bases of the mature leaves and seem to be riding piggyback on the main plant. The leaves are green and hairy. These plants are beautiful in hanging baskets. Try them.

Piggyback Plant Care (Tolmiea Menziesii)  Requirements
Light

The piggyback plant requires bright light.

Temperature and Humidity

The piggyback plant requires mild temperature of about 68 degrees F (20 degrees C) during the day and about 50 to 60 degrees F (10 to 15 degrees C) at night and medium humidity.

Soil

Grow your piggyback plant in a loam soil mix and keep the soil well drained.

Water

Water your piggyback plant moderately, but get the entire pot of soil moist to the touch. Allow the soil to dry before the next watering. Overwatering causes leaf tip burn.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer

Fertilize fully established piggyback plants once per month. Do not fertilize newly potted plants during the first two months, if you had used a commercial soil mix.

Pests and Diseases

The piggyback plant is susceptible to being attacked by whitefly. Spray with Malathion or Rotenone.

Propagation

Propagate your piggyback plant from plantlets and repot in an all-purpose soil mix.

Ponytail Plant Care

[ad_left]

Ponytail Plant (Beaucarnea recurvata)

Ponytail Plant Care

The Ponytail plant is a succulent originally from the desert areas of Mexico. It has a bottle-shaped stem which serves as a reservoir for water and from which grow grey-green leaves up to 3ft. (1m) in length. It sometimes produces clusters of small white flowers.

As a houseplant the ponytail plant is easy to care for and it grows well when placed outdoors during summer.

Ponytail Plant Care (Beaucarnea recurvata) Requirements
Light

The ponytail plant requires bright and direct sunlight all year.

Temperature and Humidity

It grows well in the temperature range from 55 - 70 degrees F (12 - 22 degrees C), but your ponytail plant requires low humidity.

Soil

Use an all-purpose soil mixture for your ponytail plant.

Water

Water your ponytail plant once per week from spring to early fall, but after each watering allow the soil to become almost dry before the next watering. Water infrequently in winter.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer

Use a liquid fertilizer twice per month during spring and summer.

Pests and Diseases

The ponytail plant is susceptible to being attacked by spider mites and mealybugs, if it is located in a too dry and warm area. For treatment use Malathion or Diazinon and move the plant to a cooler area with better air circulation. For low toxic plant food and non-poisonous insecticides visit Victorpest.com

Propagation

Propagate your ponytail plant in summer by placing seeds or shoots in moist peat moss or vermiculite.

Rubber Plant Care

[ad_left]

Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica)

Choose the Rubber plant from the Ficus family as a starting houseplant. It's a tough plant and will fit very well in difficult locations in your home. It's an upright plant with glossy green leaves. It grows exceedingly well when given proper care. Clean the leaves occasionally with a soft damp cloth to maintain the beautiful appearance. Cut off the tip to stimulate low branching. It is sometimes sold at a low price to bring customers into the store. Buy it. It's tough.

Rubber Plant Care (Ficus elastica) Requirements
Light

Rubber plants require bright to diffused/filtered light.

Temperature and Humidity

Keep your rubber plant in a warm area with well circulated air with medium humidity.

Soil

Grow your rubber plant in a rich loam soil.

Water

Water your rubber plant moderately, but get the entire pot of soil moist to the touch. Allow the soil to partially dry before the next watering. Overwatering rubber plants causes the lower leaves to turn yellow and drop.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer

Fertilize your plant twice per month from early spring to late summer.

Pests and Diseases

Rubber plants are affected by mealybugs, mites, scale and thrips. Wash leaves with lukewarm soapy water. If infestation is severe, spray with Malathion or Diazinon.

Propagation

Propagate rubber plants by air layering.

Spider Plant Care

[ad_left]

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum)

Spider Plant Care Requirements

The Spider plant is an excellent plant for a beginner because it grows easily and quickly. It is also very tolerant of different growing conditions. It has long, narrow, curving bright green leaves with a creamy center or edges. It produces small white flowers on long stems and finally these flowers become plantlets which can be potted.

Chlorophytum is extremely adaptable to different growing conditions.

Spider Plant Care (Chlorophytum) Requirements
Light

A well lit and a well ventilated area away from direct sunlight is best suited for the spider plant, but it will also tolerate other conditions.

Temperature and Humidity

The spider plant requires average warmth and must not be kept below freezing point in winter. Mist the plant regularly in summer.

Soil

Grow your spider plant in an all-purpose soil mix.

Water

Water your spider plant 2 or 3 times a week during spring and summer, but allow the soil to became almost dry between waterings. Water sparingly in winter.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer

Use a liquid fertilizer once every two weeks in the summer. During the dormant period of winter feed your spider plant once every two months. If you use a commercial soil mix to repot, do not fertilize for a period of two months.

Peats and Diseases

The spider plant is pest free, but will be attacked by aphids if the plant is weak. If the infestation of aphids is severe, treat with Malathion or Rotenone.

Propagation

Pin the plantlets on moistened vermiculite placed in a container near the plant. Vermiculite gives the plant stronger roots. When the roots are formed, cut the stem and repot your new spider plant in an all-purpose soil.

Snake Plant Care

[ad_left]

Snake Plant (Sansevieria)

Snake Plant Care Requirements

Snake Plant grows in clumps of heavy, sword-like, vertical, fleshy leaves to
a height of about 18 to 32 inches ( 46 to 82 cm). S. zeylanica has dark, mottled leaves and S. trifasciata laurenti has the same types of leaves with a creamy-white edge. Sansevieria are very durable and grow in adverse conditions. Try it.

Snake Plant Care (Sansevieria) Requirements
Light

The snake plant prefers bright to direct light, but grow well in diffused or shaded light.

Temperature and Humidity

The snake plant grows well in warm temperature and medium humidity.

Soil

Use a 50-50 mixture of a cactus mix and an all-purpose soil mix.

Water

Water your snake plant profusely, but allow the soil to dry before the next watering.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer

Fertilize lightly each month during spring, summer and early fall, but not during winter. Repot your snake plant about every 4 years.

Pests and Diseases

Snake plants are susceptible to attacks by mealybugs and scale insects. Treat with lukewarm soapy water. If infestation is severe, spray with Malathion or Diazinon. Overwatering snake plants will cause leaf and root rot.

Propagation

Propagate your snake plants from offsets, by leaf cuttings and by division at the roots.

Venus flytrap plant care

[ad_left]

Venus flytrap plant careRequirements

The Venus flytrap is an easy to grow houseplant. Try it. It's an insectivorous plant "monster" that devours insects. Its leaves have very sensitive spines in the center of the upper surface. When these spines are triggered by the touch of an insect, the leaf snaps shut trapping the insect. The trapped insect is slowly digested as food for your Venus flytrap.

Venus flytrap plant care (Dionaea muscipula) Requirements
Light

venus flytrap plant care requires bright sunlight.

Temperature and Humidity

Keep your Venus flytrap in a cool area with good air circulation and high humidity. Place outdoors during summer.

Soil

Use unmilled sphagnum moss in an open terrarium. Replace moss as it starts to disintegrate.

Water

Keep the soil mix moist at all times. The Venus flytrap naturally grows in swamps.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer

Feed your Venus flytrap once per week with liquid fertilizer when the plant is indoors. If the plant catches insects outdoors in summer, no fertilizer is needed.

Pests and Diseases

Venus flytrap is never damaged by insects because it consumes them, but it is susceptible to powdery mildew.

Propagation

Propagate your Venus flytrap by dividing the underground bulbs.

Healthy houseplants tips

[ad_left]

 

Healthy houseplants tips

Healthy Houseplants and Flowers - Buying Tips!

To insure success as a beginner in growing house plants, you must start with strong, healthy plants. We give you tips to make buying flowers and plants easy both when you buy from your neighborhood florists and when you order flowers online.

• Observe these conditions when buying flowers and house plants.


• Buy houseplants from a reliable and credible nursery, where you are sure to get healthy plants and professional advice.


• Buy the type of plants that will not grow too big for the available space in your home.


• Check the soil mix to be sure that it is not dried out. If it is dried out, the plants are being neglected.


• Buy houseplants that have a well-balanced shape.


• Check the roots. Many roots protruding from the bottom of the pot is a sign of neglect. The plant should have been repotted.


• Do not buy flowering plants if the majority of the buds are opened. Those plants will have a short flowering life in your home.


• Do not buy plants if you are prevented from thoroughly checking them out.


• Ask the nursery attendant for information on the plants' feeding, watering, fertilizing, temperature and lighting needs and where best to locate the plant in your house.


• Be sure you can provide the conditions which the plant requires.


• Make sure that your plant is appropriately covered during transportation. Plants need to be protected against extreme temperature and wind.


• Put your new plants in a segregated area for one week to prevent the possible spread of pests and diseases to your other plants.


• Signs of trouble in house plants


• Leaves show signs of plant diseases and pests. Example; leaves are discolored and/or have holes and are limpy.


• Uneven distribution of leaves


• Soil mixture is dry and hard. That's a sign of neglect.


• Tips for ordering house plants and flowers online


• Be sure that your order is clearly written or correctly selected.


• Be sure that the plants or flowers ordered are available.


• Order early and make sure that the delivery date does not conflict with the florist's delivery schedule.
  Give specific information, including a return address.


• Order flower online from florists who control their own delivery.

When you order flower online, you would not be able to use the advice given for shopping from your neighborhood florists. Growers Flowers.com maintains excellent customer satisfaction.
House plants suitable to certain lighting conditions

[ad_right]

Healthy houseplants tips

LIGHTING CONDITIONS HOUSE PLANTS

Low light/Shade Aspidistra - Cast Iron Plant, Asplenium - Bird's Nest Fern, Dracaena - Corn Plant, Fatsia, Ferns, Fittonia - Mosaic Plant or Nerve Plant, Maranta - Prayer Plant,
Neanthe Bella Palm or Dwarf Palm , Philodendron, Sansevieria - Snake Plant
Indirect/diffused/filtered light Anthurium - Flamingo Flower, Asparagus, Azalea, Begonia rex, Bromeliads, Chlorophytum - Spider Plant, Chrysanthemum, Codiaeum - Croton, Dieffenbachia -
Dumb cane, Fuchsia- Lady's Eardrops, Hedera - English Ivy, Hoya - Wax Plant
or Hindu Rope Plant, Impatiens - Busy Lizzie or Patient Lucy, Monstera -
Swiss Cheese Plant, Philodendron, Poinsettia, Scindapsus - Devil's Ivy or Pathos
Bright/direct sunlight Acacia - Kangaroo Thorn, Bougainvillea - Paper Flower, Cacti & Succculents, Celosia, Citrus, Coleus, Hibiscus, Jasminum - Jasmine, Lantana, Oxalis - Wood Sorrel

Plant Lights

Pointers to help you make the best use of all available light in your home!

Examine your home to determine where there are the following lighting conditions; bright/direct light, filtered/indirect light and dim/low light.
Know the lighting requirements of the indoor plants you bought. If it is not written on the tag, ask the attendant.
Place indoor plants requiring bright/direct sunlight in windows facing the south if you live north of the equator, and in windows facing north if you live south of the equator.
Place plants requiring a medium amount of sunlight (filtered/indirect) in the same rooms as above, but behind curtained/screened windows.
Place plants requiring dim/low light in hallways, bathrooms or bedrooms.
Turn indoor plants around at least twice per month during the growing season in order to maintain a balanced growth.

Signs of Lack of light

• 
  New leaves are smaller and not as colorful as they should be, if they had received the required amount of light;


• 
  Old leaves look pale and may have curled edges;


• 
  Variegated leaves may turn plain green;


• 
  Leaf tips and edges may be brown;


• 
  The plant's growth is in one direction towards the source of light. Leaves on the new stem are pale green and small. The new growth on cacti and succulents looks limp and weak.
  Signs of Too Much Light

Stems and leaves have grey-brown or yellow patches;
Plants wilt during the day despite all other plant-care factors being appropriate for that plant. (Factors: watering, temperature, humidity, soil and fertilizing)
Cacti become yellow.

 

• 
  8 Rules to ensure your success with house plants


• 
  Don't over water. Over watering prevents the roots from breathing air which they need.


• 
  Plants need a rest in winter. Reduce your watering, feedong and heating from the amount given during the growing season.


• 
  Monitor the humidity of the rooms, and in winter, increase the humidity especially for tropical plants.


• 
  Keep a close observation for signs of trouble and treat them immediately.


• Good general care is a preventative measure to attacks by pests and diseases.


• 
  Group like plants together. You will better capture their beauty and they will also grow better.


• 
  Timely repotting improves the growth and health of your plants.
  Know the plant-growing conditions that exist in your home and buy house plants that will be compatible with those growing conditions; such as, light,

temperature and humidity.

Pay attention to the advice given for taking care of the plants listed below in our Beginners' Plant Group. These plants are some of the most common houseplants and a few are referred to as ‘cast-iron' plants. They grow well in a wide range of conditions and you would be successful as a beginner with them.

Tropical House Plants Care

[ad_left]

Tropical plants and flowers are easily available off- and online so that we can always make use of their vibrant beauty. The Basics for Being Successful with tropical house plants and flowers
Light, temperature and humidity, water, soil, fertilizer, pests and plant diseases are the principal factors that must be appropriately controlled to ensure success in growing tropical house plants and flowers.

Tropical House Plants Care

Light

• Light is the most important ingredient needed to produce bright, attractive foliage and flowers, and food for plants.


• Plants receive light from all sides in their natural environment. In our homes they receive light from one side, usually from a window. Agreed? Now, to compensate;


• rotate your plants at least twice per month to allow the whole plant to get an equal amount of light.


• 
  Tropical plants and desert plants require more light than others, so note the different amounts of light we get in our homes; bright, direct light; indirect, diffused or filtered light and low light. Check your home carefully to see how much light enters each room.


• Bright, direct sunlight - Light that delivers the full rays of the sun into a room from the south windows. (Note: Plants can be scorched by magnified sun's rays passing through glass panes.)


• 
  Indirect, diffused or filtered light - Light that filters through a sheer into a room from the north or south windows.


• 
  Low light -Light that is normally in bathrooms, bedrooms and hallways.
  When needed, natural light can be augmented by artificial plant lights.


• Plants that thrive in sunny tropical and desert conditions may have their leaves scorched by the magnified sun's rays passing through glass panes, especially patterned glass.


• Use sheers or net curtains to filter out the strongest rays.

[ad_right]

Temperature and Humidity

Recommended temperatures are not absolute, as most tropical house plants will survive at temperatures lower than the recommended one. There must be a balance between light, temperature and humidity.

In winter

high temperature may cause increased growth in house plants that cannot be supported by the existing amount of poor light in a room.
when temperature gets close to freezing tropical house plants may suffer damage at night, because the temperature in the rooms may be too low.
In summer tropical house plants require a high enough level of humidity to survive under hot conditions.
Humidity - the amount of moisture present in the air in ratio to a given temperature - is necessary for the proper growth of all plants, but is most important for plants with thin and delicate leaves. Mist these plants at least once per day. If your tropical house plants are in bloom, cover the blooms while you mist, to protect the petals from rotting.

Even though most house plants are tropical plants, yet high temperatures adversely affect some of them by causing the moisture in the soil to evaporate too quickly. We will give tips for maintaining acceptable temperature and humidity level for the house plants we introduce to you.

When needed, humidity can be increased in rooms by putting water in trays with gravel or marbles. Place these trays near heating radiators. Plants can also be placed on the gravel in these trays but the base of the pot must not touch the water. Trays with houseplants must not be placed near radiators.

Soil

There are many good, all-purpose commercial mixes available which you can use to repot tropical house plants. Always ask your nursery attendant if you need to have a special mix for your plant. The house plants which you buy online or directly from nurseries would have been grown in the medium most suitable for them, so do not change that soil until repotting has to be done.

To sterilize your own soil preparation, fill a baking pan with your soil mix and bury a potato in the middle of the soil. Place in oven at 350 degrees. When the potato is cooked, the soil is sterilized.

Water

Inadequate watering - both overwatering and underwatering - is the greatest cause of damage to house plants.

Overwatering leads to root rot and leaf spot and, if not corrected, the plant will die. Underwatering leads to wilting from which the plant will rebound after the next watering. That is, if there is a next watering.

As a general rule, water your house plants when the surface of the soil looks dry or when the soil crumbles in your fingers.

Here are 5 factors which affect the watering needs of tropical house plants: - room temperature, humidity, evaporation, type of potting soil and type of container.

Rules for Watering

• Use room temperature or lukewarm water.


• 
  Rain water is the best water for house plants.


• 
  Allow chlorinated tap water to sit overnight before using.


• 
  Never use water from water softeners.


• 
  Water from the top of the pot.


• 
  Do not spill water on the leaves or the crown - (the junction of stem and roots) - of the plant.

Fertilizer

There are 16 chemicals/elements which are essential for plant growth. The most important ones are:

 

NITROGEN which promotes growth. In spring use fertilizers with low nitrogen content because nitrogen will cause excessive growth.
PHOSPHORUS which promotes root development and growth and the formation of flower buds.

[ad_left]

• POTASSIUM/POTASH helps with root growth and maintains a balance between nitrogen and phosphorus.


• 
  CALCIUM/LIME helps phosphorus and potassium to be readily available to be absorbed by plants. It is detrimental to plants which need acid in their growth because it neutralizes the acid.


• 
  And many trace elements; such as iron, copper, zinc, molybdenum, manganese and boron plus lesser chemicals.

General Rules for Fertilizing

• 
  Fertilize lightly but frequently, i.e.- once or twice per month; heavily - once every 3 or 4 months, or use a slow release fertilizer starting in spring. Your choice depends on the type of plant.


• 
  Do not fertilize newly bought house plants during the first 2 months.
  Do not fertilize during winter.


• 
  Do not fertilize during the first two months after repotting with a commercial fertilizer.


• 
  Too much or too little feeding, watering or light, or poor air circulation can hinder plant growth and development and cause your houseplants to be vulnerable to being attacked by pests and diseases.

Chinese Evergreen Plant Care

[ad_left]

Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema species)

This evergreen is very easy to grow. It grows tall and have large, oval pointed, dark green leather-like leaves. It's an excellent plant for bedrooms and bathrooms. There is almost no need for repotting your Chinese evergreen. It will live for about twenty-five years without repotting.
Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema species) Plant Care Requirements

Chinese Evergreen Plant Care

Light

Chinese evergreen requires dim/low light. Do not place in direct sunlight.

Temperature and Humidity

Requires medium humidity at room temperature.

Soil

Use peat loam. Chinese evergreen will also grow in water alone.

Water

Keep the soil moist from spring to fall. Water your Chinese Evergreen sparingly in winter.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer

Fertilizer fully establish plants lightly each month. Feed the plant consistently because insufficient fertilization causes the leaves lower down the plant to wither and drop. Do not fertilizer freshly potted plants during the first two months.

Pests and Diseases

Chinese evergreen is affected by ants and mealybugs. To treat wash leaves with soapy water. If badly infested, spray with a poison-free environmentally friendly insecticide

Propagation

To propagate your Chinese evergreen, divide it and repot in an all-purpose soil mix. Also propagate by air layering or by putting cuttings in water.

 

 

Christmas Cactus Plant Care

[ad_left]

Christmas Cactus (Zygocactus truncatus)

Forest Cacti - Christmas Cactus and Easter Cactus: Plant Care Requirements

Schlumbergera bridgessi flowers indoors during winter. Hence, the common name Christmas Cactus. It is a very popular cactus, as is the Easter Cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri). These two cactus plants are Forest Cacti which require different care from the spine- covered Desert Cacti. To get the Forest Cacti to bloom each year, you have to follow specific rules similar to other Christmas plants; such as:

Providing a cool and dry - resting period.
Providing about 6 to 8 weeks of 12-hour total darkness starting about September 1st.
Not moving the plant once the buds start appearing.

Placing the plant outdoors during summer to allow the stems to harden.

Forest cacti have leaf-like stems and grow in a trailing pattern which makes them a favorite for hanging baskets.

The leaf-like stem of the Christmas Cactus is composed of flattened segments that bear pointed projections (tooth-edged segments) which are the key to identifying this cactus.

General Care Requirements for Forest Cacti
Specific pointers for taking care of the Christmas Cactus and Easter Cactus are given below.

Christmas Cactus Plant Care

Light:

Place your Forest Cacti in a well-lit area which is shaded from direct sunlight.

Temperature and Humidity:

Keep these cacti in the temperature range of 55 - 70 degrees F. (13 - 22 degrees C.) during the active growing period of spring and summer. During the resting period of February to March, keep them at a temperature of 55 degrees F. (13 degrees C.) Return them to the warm area when the flower buds appear. Mist the leaves frequently.

Water:

Water regularly during the active growing period, but allow the compost to get dry between waterings. Water infrequently during the rest period.

Soil:

Grow your Forest Cacti in a loose peaty soil.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer:

Use a liquid fertilizer at one-half its stated strength every 5 to 6 weeks during spring and summer. Add a small amount of potash feed during summer to help with flowering. Do not fertilize during the rest period of fall and winter.

Pests and Diseases:

Normally they are pest-free, but may be attacked by aphids, mealy bugs or scale.

Propagation:

Use stem cuttings.
Take a terminal leaf pad or stem tip cutting in the summer.
Allow the cutting to dry for a few days and then place it in a loose peaty soil mix.

Kalanchoe Plant Care

[ad_left]

Kalanchoe - Christmas Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe Blossfeildiana)

Kalanchoe Plant Care

The Christmas Kalanchoe is very popular. It can be induced to flower at any time during the year, though spring season is its natural flowering time. Hybrids produce lilac, orange, pink, red, white or yellow blooms. Plantlets grow from the center of the green scolloped leaves and so it is also called the Miracle Leaf Plant. You can also remove and grow these plantlets.

It used to be chiefly a winter-flowering plant. Therefore, the common name Christmas Kalanchoe. But now hybrids are made to flower all year round.

To force these Christmas plant to bloom lessen the amount of light it gets, so that it has long, dark nights. (You trick it into feeling that it's winter.) Christmas plants like Poinsettia and Kalanchoe, need the same treatment to make them bloom during Christmas, so check in Poinsettia website - "How To Make Your Poinsettia Bloom Next Christmas!"

[ad_right]

Another beautiful one is THE KALANCHOE TOMENTOSA (Panda Plant), a succulent with soft fleshy, spoon-shaped leaves which feel and look like white velvet.

Christmas Pepper Plant Care

[ad_left]

Christmas Pepper (Capsicum annuum)

These Pepper plants produce very colorful and decorative fruits which give the plant its real beauty. These oval or pointed fruits appear in summer or winter after the plant produces small white flowers. First the fruits are green, then they turn to shades of yellow, orange and then red. Take good care of these Christmas plants and you will enjoy the beauty of their fruits for 8 to 12 weeks.

Place a few Christmas Pepper plants on a table and you will create a very beautiful and decorative display. Many of these Christmas plants are sold during December to add the traditional Christmas color to the holiday season.

The Christmas Pepper originated from Chilli and Cayenne peppers, so keep them away from children because the fruits though edible can irritate the skin and cause serious itching.

Christmas Pepper Plant Care

Light:

Keep these Pepper plants in an area with direct sunlight.

Temperature and Humidity:

The Christmas Pepper requires cool to average warmth with a minimum of 55 degrees F (13 C). Mist the leaves frequently. Stand the pot on pebble trays with water to maintain an adequate level of humidity. Increase the humidity if the fruits shrivel and drop off; the flowers drop off or the leaf tips turn brown.

Soil:

Grow Pepper plants in an all-purpose soil mix .

Water:

Water your pepper plants only after the top inch of soil is dry.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer:

Use a commercial liquid fertilizer twice per month during the fruiting season. Do not fertilize the Pepper seedlings during the first two months, if you had used a commercial soil mix.

Pests and Diseases:

These Christmas plants are susceptible to being attacked by aphids, spider mites and whiteflies. To treat use lukewarm soppy water with nicotine. Check Poinsettia - Pests and Diseases!

Propagation

Sow these Pepper seeds in a 50/50 mixture of vermiculite and an all-purpose soil mix in early spring. It's not always successful. These Christmas plants are annuals, discard after the colorful fruits have fallen off. If you want to keep the plant, cut back the stems to half their length and repot in fresh soil. Then place in an area with high humidity.

African Violets Plant Care

[ad_left]

African violets plant care  (Saintpaulia eonantha)

African Violets are the most popular house plants which bloom. Their leaves are small, thick, hairy and of different shapes. They form a green color around the blue, purple, white and pink flowers. They will bloom all year round if given the proper care and a favorable environment.
African Violets (Saintpaulia eonantha) Plant Care Requirements

Light

Keep your African violets in an area with bright indirect light, but never in direct sunlight.

Temperature and Humidity

African violets require warm temperature and high humidity. Place plant on marbles or pebbles in a water tray, but do not allow the bottom of the pot to touch the water. Mist your African Violets with tepid water to keep the leaves from spotting.

Soil

Use a commercial highly organic African Violet soil mix and keep it well drained.

Water

Keep soil moderately moist at all times. Use room temperature water and water from the edge of the pot to prevent breaking the stems and causing stem rot. Do not wet the leaves.

[ad_right]

Fertilizer

Feed fully established plants every month with an African Violet plant food. Do not fertilize repotted plants during the first two months. Do not feed during the dormant period of November and December. Keep your African violets moderately root-bound and, if necessary, repot them in late spring.

Pests and Diseases

African violets are affected by aphids, root rot, crown or stem rot, leaf spot, mildew and botrytis.

Propagation

To propagate your African violets use leaf cuttings or sow seeds in spring.

Adenium arabicum

[ad_left]
Adenium arabicum Balf. f. suchas : Arab giant , Saudi giant, Arizona giant. They normally found in the Southern and western margin of the Arabian peninsula.

Adenium arabicum

This species has quite big stems with very soft leaves, they usually bloom lots along the stem and arms. The colour is bright pink, always fading to near white toward throat, which has generally one nectar guide per petal. The follicle are usually in dark red and much bigger than those of A. Obesum, the seeds are rapidly large. The short stem has 1 meter wide for the base, branches widely and lots.

This particular species imported both seeds and scions from Middle East 20 years ago. So many of them are growing very well and faster than original species in Thailand. It might be the reason of the big caudex. Now they called the name of Adeniums by imported area such as; The Arab (Singburi) , Lobburi , Ayuttaya , Oungkharak and Korat.

The colour would tell the species as much as can tell by stems and branches with the big follicle straight vertically standing, flowers around stems and arms.

Be able to grow by seed-grown in Thailand so that hybrids are spreadily popular. They fertilized widely, made The colour of flowers varied from pink to white and red which is now becoming the symbol of great species in Thailand. Some importer brought Adeniums that have big caudex from America but still not well-known. After that, some imported from Holland and got more famous; Half-breed of “ Holland ” they named it. The colour is white to deep red.0

[ad_right]

For the original species or half breed Holland that gave unsatisfied colour but the caudex is big and roots well healthy then, it can be used for repotting to a better sub-species.

Adeniums that are found in Thailand are likely covered with all the species with various types and unique beautiful bodies. Because of the water, soil, weather are suitable to breed the plants. The cultivation in Thailand is rapidly developed and adapted the families of Adeniums made such a great result to the need. And now foreigners are coming to study and doing business here in Thailand.

The variety of Adeniums are still maintaining with the hope that the plants will breed across over the species so that will be more hybrid or sub-species. The small stem or scions can be graft on the others that, would make such a wonderful result. The flowers are classed by the popularity of colour favour ; bright colour, dark colour or fresh light colour and unusual colour, flower’s shapes or how long the blooming would last or how much the blooming goes.